Brake Motive Rotors & Pads on Ebay = $154.83 for everything. It's Power Stop Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors & Power Stop Ceramic Brake Pads. They work very well & leave barely any brake dust. I have them on 2 D2's, as well as my LR3. Zero complaints & they ship them out extremely fast.

FRONT & REAR DRILLED SLOTTED BRAKE ROTORS AND CERAMIC PADS Fits 99-04 Discovery | eBay

If you do the job yourself (very easy as it takes me 1hr total), just do yourself a HUGE favor and go buy a manual impact tool. It will make removing the 4 phillips head rotor retaining screws a breeze. Then the rest is just removing the calipers, the caliper mount, and removing the rotor (I'd recommend spraying some penetrating lube into the lug holes, and around the hub), then to remove em use a rubber hammer, rotate the rotor, and beat it off. It should break free and just slide off after that. You shouldn't have to touch any brake fluid unless someone has topped it off with worn out pads and it'll be over-filled after the new rotors/pads.

 

Likely need to get ready to assume the position.
......

 

OP, remember to use "Genuine Land Rover Parts".... but you might need the X Large size.

 

I say use the $$$ you're gonna pay to get bent over a pole on a set of tools from harbor freight (cheap but lifetime warranty now), and do the job yourself. The D2 has one of the easiest brake jobs out there. Very straight forward & all you need is just a floor jack, 12/13mm socket & ratchet or 12/13mm open end wreches, 3/4/19mm open end wrench, a large C-Clamp, manual impact driver with #3 phillips tip, rubber mallet, some rags, and a few cold ones.

 

Gordon posted yesterday that he is not at all mechanical. I know most of us here are DIYers but telling him to do it himself isn't really helping, although for most of us brake jobs are simple. But Gordon isn't most of us.

So Gordon, the answer to your question is the universal answer - it depends. It depends on the history of your truck. It depends on how you drive your truck. And it depends on what you want from your truck and what your objectives are.

The minimum parts needed to do a brake job are the brake pads. Others have recommended Akebono pads. As best I understand they are very good. They are ceramic pads and wear longer and perform better than conventional pads in more demanding, heavy use. But I don't drive my Rover aggressively so conventional pads have been fine for me through 15 years and ~140,000 miles.

With a DII the rotors typically need to be replaced every other time the pads are replaced. That's because not only do the brake pads wear but the rotors do too. So if the rotors need to be replaced that adds to the cost.

Others have recommended drilled and slotted rotors, which do help dissipate heat, but as I said with respect to pads I don't drive the truck aggressively so conventional rotors have been fine for me.

Next up - brake calipers. The calipers on your truck may be fine but the rubber boots that keep out dirt, etc. from the caliper cylinder may be shot which means the caliper would need to be rebuilt or replaced. And long-time wisdom is that calipers should be replaced in pairs (both front or both rear). From the Land Rover maintenance schedule - "At 90,000 miles (144,000 kilometers) or every six years all working surfaces of the caliper cylinders should be examined and renewed where necessary."

Others have also recommended replacing the brake hoses. There are six hoses - one for each wheel plus two connecting the antilock brake system modulator to each of the steel lines running to the rear wheels. The official Land Rover maintenance schedule states "At 90,000 miles (144,000 kilometers) or every six years, whichever is sooner, all hydraulic brake fluid, seals and hoses should be renewed."

That quote brings up the topic of brake fluid. Although the maintenance schedule specifies refreshing the brake fluid every 90,000 miles or six years, but most of us here recommend a full flush of the brake fluid every two years. Be sure your mechanic does that.

So as I said, it depends. It depends on what you want and what you need and what you are getting for your money.

There are flat-rate manuals that specify how many hours or fractional hours standard maintenance and repairs should take and be billed. I have no actual knowledge, but having replaced pads or pads and rotors and bled the brakes at least three or four times, as a somewhat experienced but still amateur mechanic, I don't see why pads-only or pads and rotors plus a brake fluid flush should take more than two hours per axle for a professional with the right tools and equipment (front or rear). I don't know what the going hourly rate is for auto labor where you live but here it's maybe $85. So figure $170 for labor plus parts for a basic brake job. Maybe a little more if there's any indication the calipers or hoses need to be replaced.

And as someone else said, squealing doesn't necessarily mean new brakes are needed. That depends almost entirely on how much friction material is left on the pads. It sounds like you don't know when the brakes were last done. For reference, the fronts on my truck lasted 44,000 miles and rears are still okay after nearly 60,000 miles. (I should probably check the rears again ... And for the record I have not yet replaced the brake hoses.

I hope that helps.

 

Gordon has to have a car savy friend vs taking it to a shop. Pay him with a 12pack and make it a fun repair. My friend Eric with an 03 D2 isn't savy, but I'm saving him a TON of $$$ on fixing up his D2 vs selling it to me lol.

The stuff I posted CAN NOT be beat. D2/P38/LR3's are hard on their rotors due to the weight of our LR's. Some will say Cross Drilled/Slotted is a waste of time. For a 100% trail truck I agree, but for a D/D and off roading vehicle the Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors & Ceramic Brake pads will give you the longest life due to keeping the rotors cooler, and the Ceramic Brake pads will produce less dust (all brake pads no matter what they are product dust. Anyone says different = they're lying...), and the Ceramic's once heated up produce less brake fade as well. I've noticed with all my Ceramic setups they do squeak some at first like rolling out of the driveway, but after they warm up = not a peep out of them.

 

QUOTE

Great deal, I'm gonna have to order these.