I put in new EBC Rotors and Akebono brake pads todayboth sides rear. Test drive went well, and braking much better. I have a couple of questions and want to see if anyone has experienced them.

1. Only real bonehead thing I did was to set the brake pad in backwards. Akebono has a lubricant you put on the side that face the caliper. Setting it in backwards I got some on the rotor, but wiped it off as best I could.

On the test drive they work fine but under heavier braking they make a loud honking noise. Sounds like the same side. Is that a normal breaking in sound? attributable to the lubricant that may have been left on the rotor?

2. The Drivers side pads were really worn and falling apart, as much from rust as wear. The passenger's side pads had quite a bit of life left. Not a huge deal as you have to change them all at the same time, but could there be an issue with the calipers causing uneven wear?

3. The rotor retaining bolt on the drivers side would not come out, no shocker, couldn't tap it to reverse it out with a drill. The bolt was so rusted that the cap was half gone so no chance to even get the impact wrench on it. I have read that the tire holds the rotor in place anyway, so the bolt is unnecessary. Could that cause the sound?

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

I recently did the exact replacement of my pads and rotors. On the first day, there was a "honking" sound as you put it, but went away very quickly.
I followed the break-in procedure to the t, and have had perfect braking every since.
How soon did after the replacement did you have to heavy brake? I know It says to refrain from heavy braking, unless absolutely necessary, until pads are worn in, or they will glaze over, or something like that.

 

I put the same pads and cheap rotors on the back.

Mine took about 2 weeks to bed in so they were touching the whole surface of the rotor. No honking noise tho. Now they are great. Very even. Significantly better response.

Re uneven wear. Did you install the previous sets? If not, they could have just been replaced by the PO oddly. To save a few $$ on two sets. Of course it might be that one side is rubbing.

Any pulling to one side? After a decent long drive you can feel the wheels. If one is rubbing sometimes the wheel is hotter than the other.

Yes. The rotor bolt is not significant. I read somewhere it's to stop the rotor falling off when it's on the factory line. I don't thing that's the cause of the noise.

I would run it for a week. Being a touch gentle on the brakes. Bet it clears up.

 

I heavy braked, nothing extreme, I will take it easy on them or awhile. I will keep monitoring them.

I had the brakes done previously, lasted a really long time, with even wear maybe longer. Maybe I need to rebuild the calipers.

 

You have been braking on one wheel, seeing that your fronts get about 70% of the work. Flush all the brake fluid and refill with DOT4, bleeding them in sequence as referenced in the RAVE manual. Start there so that you can be sure the pressure to the Pistons is legit. At the very least you should buy brand new guide pin sets and the dust covers for them. You can't have rust and corrosion where they need to slide or you will continue having the same problem

 

New pads take time to bed in whether new rotors or old I reckon anything up to 500 miles depending on the amount of braking. I always clean off new rotors with brake cleaner as they often have anti rust coatings. The rotor screw is there to retain the rotor whilst the wheel is off albeit the pads and rust do that, I replaced all my rotor screws with stainless steel cap head countersunk screws and not over tightened then fill the cap head with hi melting point grease. The wheel retains the the rotor is any event.

 

did you check the caliper guide pins to be sure they move in and out freely, that would explain the different ware on the old pads

 

Good advice. Also, in testing you can grease those guide pins. In fact, I'd replace all of the bolts that touch the caliper if they are old. Rival farm has them and they are cheap.

As for the lubricant, it isn't causing the noise but if it concerns you just clean the pads and face of the rotor with carb cleaner.

 

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I am going to do the pins and retaining bolts. Any advice on where to get a kit? Autozone has them without new rubber boots, which were not in bad condition. I am going to do the front while I am at it.

I am wondering if there is a kit with new springs for the pins in the caliper holder, or should they be ok?

 

you should be able to get guide kits on ebay or Atlantic british