Brake Lines
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Mudding
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 149
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Brake Lines
After spending a fortune on my D2 just recently, I notice the other day my brakes seem to be failing. Turns out my brake lines were a bit rusty and one of them broke.
The shop is trying to tell me it is an incredibly huge and expensive job to replace the lines, and I have had other people say to flange the lines at the master cylinder and run fuel lines or whatever high pressure hose to the rear.
Basically, I need to find out if it really is a nightmare job, or if there is another solution...
Or if someone wants a great land rover with a lot of new parts and they can do it themselves.
The shop is trying to tell me it is an incredibly huge and expensive job to replace the lines, and I have had other people say to flange the lines at the master cylinder and run fuel lines or whatever high pressure hose to the rear.
Basically, I need to find out if it really is a nightmare job, or if there is another solution...
Or if someone wants a great land rover with a lot of new parts and they can do it themselves.
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 86
From: St Louis MO
First thing would be to see how badly they are rusted. Just in an area, or all the way front to back? Replacing brake lines is about a 3 on the PITA scale. If they are rusted along the straight areas, you can replace the sections fairly easily. Even if you only have one or two bends to make, it's not too bad.
Basically, you cut out the rusted sections, slide a nut over the line you cut and flare the end with a special tool so the nut compresses the flare. Then you just splice in a new line which already has nuts on both ends, and use a union to join the two opposing nuts together.
Basically, you cut out the rusted sections, slide a nut over the line you cut and flare the end with a special tool so the nut compresses the flare. Then you just splice in a new line which already has nuts on both ends, and use a union to join the two opposing nuts together.
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Mudding
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
I thought it wouldn't be too bad. The leak is at the straight area, but it seems that they are probably rusted at least till under the engine. One shop said it will cost me about $500 to replace which I think is BS.
How many hours do you think that would take?
How many hours do you think that would take?
Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 86
From: St Louis MO
The longest straight lines with a nut on each end we sell at work are 72", but you can also get a 25' roll of brake line, and just cut to the length you need, If you are doing the work yourself, I would definitely practice making the flare on the end of a scrap line repeatedly until you have it down.
I would probably commit the better half of a weekend day to the project. I assume you are just doing the lines going to the rear brakes. Parts shouldn't run you more than $40, not counting the rental of the flare tool.
I would probably commit the better half of a weekend day to the project. I assume you are just doing the lines going to the rear brakes. Parts shouldn't run you more than $40, not counting the rental of the flare tool.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 256
Likes: 51
From: Belfast, N. Ireland
Having replaced the 2 rear brake pipes on my D2, I can tell you it is a moderately difficult DIY job, providing you have a flaring tool to form the end flares. The most difficult part is routing the brake pipe along the chassis and across the rear cross member.
As my D2 was a UK spec. model I'm not sure of the exact routing of the pipes on the US models. Anyway, on the chassis just after the brake ABS modulator there are 2 sections of flexible brake pipe, from here the brake line is metal until it reaches the flexible pipes at the rear brake callipers.
Use copper brake pipe to replace the steel pipes from the front flexi-pipes to the rear flexi-pipes at the callipers.
Make up 2 new brake lines with new nuts and end flares. Then feed them along the chassis, clipping it in place as you go, right back to the callipers. This is all easier said than done as the original pipes are on top of the chassis, but it can be done. Be careful not to bend the pipe to sharply.
To get the pipe lengths correct you will need to take off the old ones and measure the new pipe by running the new pipe along the old one end to end or using some string to follow the pipe end to end.
Forget about cutting the old pipe and trying to form a joint on the end of it, flaring steel pipe requires some expensive flaring equipment, whereas copper can be flared with less expensive tools readily available to the DIY mechanic. You could do worse than following Eric the Car Guy for pipe flaring to see how to flare pipes.
As my D2 was a UK spec. model I'm not sure of the exact routing of the pipes on the US models. Anyway, on the chassis just after the brake ABS modulator there are 2 sections of flexible brake pipe, from here the brake line is metal until it reaches the flexible pipes at the rear brake callipers.
Use copper brake pipe to replace the steel pipes from the front flexi-pipes to the rear flexi-pipes at the callipers.
Make up 2 new brake lines with new nuts and end flares. Then feed them along the chassis, clipping it in place as you go, right back to the callipers. This is all easier said than done as the original pipes are on top of the chassis, but it can be done. Be careful not to bend the pipe to sharply.
To get the pipe lengths correct you will need to take off the old ones and measure the new pipe by running the new pipe along the old one end to end or using some string to follow the pipe end to end.
Forget about cutting the old pipe and trying to form a joint on the end of it, flaring steel pipe requires some expensive flaring equipment, whereas copper can be flared with less expensive tools readily available to the DIY mechanic. You could do worse than following Eric the Car Guy for pipe flaring to see how to flare pipes.
Baja
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 52
From: Georgia, USA
It's not a horrible job, just somewhat of PITA. There are worse jobs by far.
If you're considering doing it yourself get your supplies from Ben Hill, though you can get copper-nickel tubing from NAPA. Definitely use that, much easier to work with with and it will never rust.
I also highly recommend the Eastwood brake flaring tool.
Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool
It is so much easier to use than the little tools you rent. I have one of the other ones so I'm speaking from experience.
If you're replacing all the brake lines, which I would suggest, it's worth getting for the job then selling on. Especially while it's on sale for $30 off.
If you're considering doing it yourself get your supplies from Ben Hill, though you can get copper-nickel tubing from NAPA. Definitely use that, much easier to work with with and it will never rust.
I also highly recommend the Eastwood brake flaring tool.
Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool
It is so much easier to use than the little tools you rent. I have one of the other ones so I'm speaking from experience.
If you're replacing all the brake lines, which I would suggest, it's worth getting for the job then selling on. Especially while it's on sale for $30 off.
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
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