Brake Pad suggestions
Three Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Macedonia, Ohio
if your rotors havent been re-surfaced before, and arent too rusty or beat up, you can get them re-surfaced within spec for pretty cheap, usually under 50 bucks fior all 4. you cant resurface them too many times because they will be too thin and warp easily. but NEVER put new pads on old rotors, unless you resurface them within spec, or use new rotors
Brake pads on my Rover last about 5 years.
As an amateur racer, I can tell you nothing is farther from the truth. Brakes pads are not just brake pads. I would likely die from stoving my car into the barrier with street pads on it. At the very least I would get rear ended from having to brake so early. I would also go crazy driving around on the street with race pads (they squeal like crazy until they are good and hot - they also don't work particularly well until then). But that's an extreme example.
As for trucks, anyone who is towing in hilly areas should be particularly concerned about the quality of their brake pads and how well they handle heat fade.
As for trucks, anyone who is towing in hilly areas should be particularly concerned about the quality of their brake pads and how well they handle heat fade.
And as for towing and hilly area's, you need to drive accordingly.
Fully loaded my van weighs about 15k, I have no problem with brake fade or excessive heat build up, again, you need to be sensible and drive accordingly.
Winching
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 692
Likes: 9
That's a far cry from "brake pads is brake pads", especially on a truck capable for towing 6k pounds easily. And that was my point.
I eat brake pads for lunch, and I can tell you from personal experience that the $25 pads stop just as well as the $82 ones.
Winching
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 669
Likes: 2
From: Beaumont, Texas
2008? Do you mean an LR2? You are on the wrong forum...DIIs were made up until '04...but the answer you are looking for depends on your driving habits...good luck.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 4
From: SF Bay Area
Wow.....just read this post for the first time...from the dead...huh.
In conjunction with DarylJ about racing, having the RIGHT braking system will keep you safe and alive (and most importantly winning races). Racing (motocross and road racing) bikes for half of my life, I have found that the best "feeling" brakes build confidence and out-right out brake.
To agree with Spike, on the street can be negligible. For a stint of over 15 years of commuting, driving various makes of cars, cost of brakes became a bear to my wallet. At the beginning, I would use the best rotors and pads, in fear of losing control. Copper, metallic, etc pads worked right away but would eat rotors and/or warped them easily. When ceramics were introduced, I gave them a try. The first round of pads needed some heat/wear to get them working properly. But after a few thousand miles of use, they came into their own. I put a set on my wife's car, and she put 72k miles on her set, which I though was phenomenal. I've averaged 50k (doubled from the past) due to the traffic I deal with daily. The ceramics of today work well out of the box, providing pretty much everything you need, perfect for daily life.
Again, for daily driving, ceramics, used about 4 different mfg's and they all work well. Use new rotors or resurface the old ones if they are within spec. I know some here will say other wise, but that is just from my experience. Ceramics have saved me some coin for the past decade.
For racing, hands down, Performance Friction Carbon Metallic.....seriously...use nothing else.
In conjunction with DarylJ about racing, having the RIGHT braking system will keep you safe and alive (and most importantly winning races). Racing (motocross and road racing) bikes for half of my life, I have found that the best "feeling" brakes build confidence and out-right out brake.
To agree with Spike, on the street can be negligible. For a stint of over 15 years of commuting, driving various makes of cars, cost of brakes became a bear to my wallet. At the beginning, I would use the best rotors and pads, in fear of losing control. Copper, metallic, etc pads worked right away but would eat rotors and/or warped them easily. When ceramics were introduced, I gave them a try. The first round of pads needed some heat/wear to get them working properly. But after a few thousand miles of use, they came into their own. I put a set on my wife's car, and she put 72k miles on her set, which I though was phenomenal. I've averaged 50k (doubled from the past) due to the traffic I deal with daily. The ceramics of today work well out of the box, providing pretty much everything you need, perfect for daily life.
Again, for daily driving, ceramics, used about 4 different mfg's and they all work well. Use new rotors or resurface the old ones if they are within spec. I know some here will say other wise, but that is just from my experience. Ceramics have saved me some coin for the past decade.
For racing, hands down, Performance Friction Carbon Metallic.....seriously...use nothing else.