..:: The brake situation ::..
#1
..:: The brake situation ::..
Hi All!
I bought a set of front and rear Akebono pads a couple weeks back and I'm planning on tackling this replacement myself pretty soon -brakes are very squeeky and in need if replacement sooner than later! so any input or guidance on how to do it will be welcome and very much appreciated, thanks in advance! ;-]#
I bought a set of front and rear Akebono pads a couple weeks back and I'm planning on tackling this replacement myself pretty soon -brakes are very squeeky and in need if replacement sooner than later! so any input or guidance on how to do it will be welcome and very much appreciated, thanks in advance! ;-]#
#2
Get yourself a manual impact driver. It will truly help with removing the brake rotor securing phillips head bolts. Without it you'll just strip out the heads and an hour brake job (entire D2) will be spent on just removing that one bolt....
After that the rest is pretty simple and straightforward.
After that the rest is pretty simple and straightforward.
The following users liked this post:
adolfojbonilla (08-07-2016)
#3
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adolfojbonilla (08-07-2016)
#4
Yes, the screw thru the rotor is a PITA. There are specialized Phillips ratchet heads for that purpose, but a manual impact driver would be better. In the front, I replaced those screws with allen head screws, but in the back I just left them out.
While you have it apart, you may want to sand the center of the hub to remove corrosion and built up crap and make future jobs easier.
Be sure to compress the calipers slowly. Somewhere here there's a thread where a dude destroyed his ABS modulator by compressing the calipers too aggressively. Another option is to crack open the bleed valve as you compress, but that sets you up to have to bleed the brakes when you are done.
The akebonos are great. I just put some on my wife's Armada and now wish I had sprung for them on my Disco.
While you have it apart, you may want to sand the center of the hub to remove corrosion and built up crap and make future jobs easier.
Be sure to compress the calipers slowly. Somewhere here there's a thread where a dude destroyed his ABS modulator by compressing the calipers too aggressively. Another option is to crack open the bleed valve as you compress, but that sets you up to have to bleed the brakes when you are done.
The akebonos are great. I just put some on my wife's Armada and now wish I had sprung for them on my Disco.
The following users liked this post:
adolfojbonilla (08-07-2016)
#5
Well I used a #3 Phillips head bit and the manual impact driver and those screws have always come out. I did notice on my 99 that someone tried to be sneaky and replaced the bolts with allen head bolts. I haven't tried to remove them, but that will be interesting one day.
Brake wise still extremely happy with the Brake Motive stuff aka Power Stop. Hardly any dust, zero squeaks, and they stop well.
Brake wise still extremely happy with the Brake Motive stuff aka Power Stop. Hardly any dust, zero squeaks, and they stop well.
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adolfojbonilla (08-07-2016)
#6
...thank you guys for your tips so far! So next step should be to get the "manual impact driver", already did some research on it and should get this week.
My new question is, this tool will only be needed to loosen the screws that hold the rotors? but do I want or need to get the rotors out to just replace the pads? how to determine if rotors need to be replaced or resurfaced? ...thanks again! ;-]#
My new question is, this tool will only be needed to loosen the screws that hold the rotors? but do I want or need to get the rotors out to just replace the pads? how to determine if rotors need to be replaced or resurfaced? ...thanks again! ;-]#
#7
Yes, the screw thru the rotor is a PITA. There are specialized Phillips ratchet heads for that purpose, but a manual impact driver would be better. In the front, I replaced those screws with allen head screws, but in the back I just left them out.
While you have it apart, you may want to sand the center of the hub to remove corrosion and built up crap and make future jobs easier.
Be sure to compress the calipers slowly. Somewhere here there's a thread where a dude destroyed his ABS modulator by compressing the calipers too aggressively. Another option is to crack open the bleed valve as you compress, but that sets you up to have to bleed the brakes when you are done.
The akebonos are great. I just put some on my wife's Armada and now wish I had sprung for them on my Disco.
While you have it apart, you may want to sand the center of the hub to remove corrosion and built up crap and make future jobs easier.
Be sure to compress the calipers slowly. Somewhere here there's a thread where a dude destroyed his ABS modulator by compressing the calipers too aggressively. Another option is to crack open the bleed valve as you compress, but that sets you up to have to bleed the brakes when you are done.
The akebonos are great. I just put some on my wife's Armada and now wish I had sprung for them on my Disco.
As per the Akebonos, I've read more positive comments than negative, and pricing was right, so choice was easy!
Again, thanks for your feedback!
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 08-07-2016 at 06:43 AM.
#8
...thanks Dr. Mordo! ...that "sanding of the hub tip" to get things nicer might be one reason to remove the rotors. As per compressing the calipers, that's something I must do on all four? to get those pistons flushed back in place before refitting, right? and no worries, I'll be gentle compressing. As per bleeding the brakes, I'm comfortable doing it, have done it in the past, in fact have my "DIY Brake Bleed kit" ;-]#
As per the Akebonos, I've read more positive comments than negative, and pricing was right, so choice was easy!
Again, thanks for your feedback!
As per the Akebonos, I've read more positive comments than negative, and pricing was right, so choice was easy!
Again, thanks for your feedback!
EUR676 front & EUR493 rear
Source Harbor Freight for the disc brake pad service kit (link below).
Remember, to pop the top off the master cylinder reservoir while compressing each caliper's piston.
Some disc brake pad service kits require you "use" an old brake pad as a spacer to accomplish compressing both Pistons at once.
One more tip. Inspect each caliper slider pin "bolt" (each caliper has two pins) for resistance. There should be zero to minimum. The calipers should move freely over the slider pins "bolts". If obstructed remove, clean, and gently grease the pins.
Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit 18 Pc
Last edited by coors; 08-07-2016 at 07:20 AM.
The following users liked this post:
adolfojbonilla (08-07-2016)
#9
I find Amazon continuously has best pricing on Akebono's. It's a good pad I ran them for years on both my DII's and my Audi's.
EUR676 front & EUR493 rear
Source Harbor Freight for the disc brake pad service kit (link below).
Remember, to pop the top off the master cylinder reservoir while compressing each caliper's piston.
Some disc brake pad service kits require you "use" an old brake pad as a spacer to accomplish compressing both Pistons at once.
One more tip. Inspect each caliper slider pin "bolt" (each caliper has two pins) for resistance. There should be zero to minimum. The calipers should move freely over the slider pins "bolts". If obstructed remove, clean, and gently grease the pins.
Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit 18 Pc
EUR676 front & EUR493 rear
Source Harbor Freight for the disc brake pad service kit (link below).
Remember, to pop the top off the master cylinder reservoir while compressing each caliper's piston.
Some disc brake pad service kits require you "use" an old brake pad as a spacer to accomplish compressing both Pistons at once.
One more tip. Inspect each caliper slider pin "bolt" (each caliper has two pins) for resistance. There should be zero to minimum. The calipers should move freely over the slider pins "bolts". If obstructed remove, clean, and gently grease the pins.
Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit 18 Pc
#10
The following users liked this post:
adolfojbonilla (08-08-2016)
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