So in the last week I have replaced the master cylinder, replaced the brake fluid resivoir with a kit from AB and have had the brakes bled. Its nice to finally have brakes again and the leaking issue resolved, but she doesn't stop/ brake as I feel it should. The brakes are more firm than they were prior its, just that when the pedal is pushed down, the truck can still inch forward, I have to put some umph in my push to keep her in place, and this is all at a stand still, only in drive, no throttle. I am assuming the bleeding of the brakes wasn't done correctly. Any tips on how to resolve my issue? I also had a local shop bleed the brakes as they were a lot more efficient than I would've been.

 

The way you do it is the way I was taught to do it......you are right, you want to tighten the nipple while the pedal is being held down.

 

@ jared9220 and MarkSF, that process was done already, when in drive and doing a lap around the block, shes not braking as I feel it should. I have to really press hard onto the pedal. prior to the change of parts, I could rest my foot on the brake pedal and she wouldn't move, now I have to seriously hold it. It doesn't go to the floor or anything like that. Maybe a few miles of driving and it will be back to noral?

 

Did they change the actual pads? They might need to break in.

 

It takes several times bleeding to get it back to normal. Last summer I did the same thing and had the same result.

Bleed until no bubbles, drive around block and try to engage the ABS to get that system into play too, that means stomping hard on the brake pedal, several times.... It may not pulse at this point but try to make it.

Bleed again, you'll see more bubbles... drive again... stomp on brakes again, bleed again...

repeat until the ABS actually starts pulsing like it should.

 

Once again guys, this is whay I use this forum... Your insight and experience is beyond valuable. I will be performing this tonight after work and through the rest of week if necessary to resolve this issue. Thanks,

 

If the rotors and pads were replaced - it takes a few hundred miles for them to bed in.
Caution --
If you put on new rotors, you need to get the thin film of factory protective grease off of them with brake cleaner.
If not - you may have issues stopping until it burns off.

 

For all the talk of following the RAVE procedure, NONE OF YOU actually did.


You're gonna brake (no pun intended) something or hit someone/something if you keep mashing on stuff and trying to get ABS to activate, re-bleed multiple times, drive it on public roads, etc etc...


If any brake component upstream of the ABS modulator has been removed (ie. master cyl.) you must use testbook or similar device to clear air out of the modulator channels itself. The air in these channels is what's causing your squishy pedal - and will NOT go away through the regular bleeding process.

The RAVE procedure you all are talking about is for any component downstream of the modulator, ie. brake lines, calipers, etc.

I believe it's similar however, with the ABS bleed program triggered by testbook, you crack the bleeders w/ pedal down to force the air out of the modulator.

I just went through this as I was unable to get to my independent shop for quite some time after a master cylinder replacement. Like you, I was able to at least get her back on the road, but had to pump for good braking and if I didn't, it required decent force and the travel was extensive.

BTW even if you just activate the ABS bleed program in testbook a few times WITHOUT cracking any bleeders, your problems will go away 80%.

 

I've noticed on my AutoCom Diagnostic Tool that it has bleeding for the ABS System. So what you are saying is that by activating the ABS while driving, it is forcing out the air that using a Diagnostic tool would have done?

Also, I'd be weary of a Local Shop that didn't know about the proper bleed procedure. They could have left you in a bad situation if you were not bright enough to realize there was a problem.

 

Just to be clear, I was not questioning your accuracy, or if it was true, I was confirming that I understood what you were saying.

For those who do not have access to a Scan Tool capable of doing this, it's nice to know there are alternatives. It stinks to have to pay someone $100 to hook up a tool for a couple minutes if there's a workaround that works. Saving money is a large part of what these forums are about.