Good evening everyone! I just became the proud new owner of my first ever Land Rover today! A 2000 Land Rover Disco 2 with 140K miles. Right now, after having a mechanic friend take a look at it, he recommended I get the following replaced from the get-go:

- Front, upper, and lower ball joints (~$80)
- Tie rod end (~$30)
- Drive shaft serviceable U-joints. (~$18 ea)
- Valve cover gasket ($7)
- Haynes manual ($30)

The reason I'm posting this is, for starters, are there any specific brand you'd recommend or urge to stay away from (my friend recommends Moog) and are there any other immediate repairs, replacements, or upgrades that you would consider a MUST HAVE right off the bat. Most of these parts will be bought from RockAuto.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and I look forward to hearing your responses!

-Tanner

 

Um, those prices are for parts only. Do you know how to wrench? Most Indy's charge 8-10 hours for the ball joints as they are a PIA. If your doing them, throw in some $$ for new front hubs and axle seals, as there wont be any extra labor, and at 140K they might be due.

Welcome and good luck.

 

I'd personally get an entirely new front drive shaft with zerk fittings as the centering ball is known to seize and fail as well as the u-joints. I'd also inspect the rear rotoflex coupling for any serious cracks. PCV Mod of mine = I'd do ASAP, then go over the entire cooling system, switch to green coolant, 180F OEM Grey Thermostat or Inline 180F, change all the fluids, use a good oil filter like a Mobil1 M301, or K&N HP3001, and 15/40w Rotella oil.

 

Correct. I would considers myself mechanically adept, especially with a manual to follow. The friend I took to inspect will be helping and teaching me along the way as well so I wont have to worry about labor. Thanks for the tip on the hubs and seals, I'll take a look into those as well.

 

Before you order parts from a random supplier check atlanticbritish, lucky8, rimmbros, bputah.

 

Ordered the 180F thermostat before I even signed the check for the vehicle based on other posts so that should be in soon. I'll take a look at the rotoflex coupling then put some serious time into researching the cooling system since I hear that's a major killer. I appreciate the oil and coolant suggestions as well!

 

I was planning on keeping most of my orders through RockAuto unless they don't carry it. I'll check out those other sites as well, thanks.

 

You won't need a Haynes manual for $30 when the RAVE is free and has every possible detail.

 

One thing I noticed while ordering U-Joints, RockAuto is only saying they'll fit "Front Driveshaft at Transfer Case (1), Front Driveshaft at Front Axle (3), and Rear Driveshaft at Transmission (4)". Based on this diagram though, I'd still be missing the Rear Driveshaft at Support Bearing (5), Rear Driveshaft at Rear Axle (6), and both Front Axle Shafts (9). Are these a different size? If so, where could I get them.

 

Rather than just the tie rod ends, it is often simpler to replace both the entire drag link and tie rod, especially if there is any damage to the current ones. If you're doing ball joints then you're going to be disassembling that whole area anyway.