Breaking in rebuilt engine
#1
Breaking in rebuilt engine
Hi guys, I am about to start my rebuild engine for the first time and I am nervous about using the right break in oil and procedure. I will be using a non-detergent 30w oil (as the one in the pic below) for 500 miles, with a drain and change of filter at the 20 miles and after that switching to rotella conventional. To prime the system I was thinking about disconnecting the fuel pump and cranking the engine. After firing it up I was thinking about taking it to 2500 rpms and keep it there for 20-25 min and then taking it for a drive.
I would appreciate any suggestions or tips given.
Thanks.
I would appreciate any suggestions or tips given.
Thanks.
The following users liked this post:
CollieRover (01-10-2020)
#2
The following 2 users liked this post by Sixpack577:
Bal D Correa (01-10-2020),
No Doubt (01-10-2020)
#5
After 20 min at 2k rpm, I would change the oil then.
If you packed the oil pump and there's assembly lube on the cam and all the bearings, I wouldn't disconnect the fuel pump.
I would have someone watching the coolant level while you hold the 2k for 20min for the break in too.
If you packed the oil pump and there's assembly lube on the cam and all the bearings, I wouldn't disconnect the fuel pump.
I would have someone watching the coolant level while you hold the 2k for 20min for the break in too.
#6
The following users liked this post:
Bal D Correa (01-11-2020)
#7
#8
Electriduct 1" Split Wire Loom Tubing Polyethylene Flexible Conduit (1 Inch ID) - Blue - 10 Feet
Electriduct 3/4" Split Wire Loom Tubing Polyethylene Flexible Conduit (0.75 Inch OD) - 10 Feet - Blue
The following users liked this post:
Richard Gallant (01-10-2020)
#9
You have exhaust wrap insulation on your headers. I tried that on my rebuild and had to shut down my motor in less than 1 minute because my cats couldn't handle the heat and started glowing orange.
I had to replace both of those cats within 2,000 miles after that stunt, so... you can learn proactively from my mistake here!
As for oil and break-in, you want actual dino oil, not synthetic.
Engine break-in differs if you have a new cam or not.
First oil change should be early. Remember, you cross-hatched your cylinder liners and have new piston rings... they are going to be shedding metal as they adapt to each other (cross-hatching wears per ring size)... so your first oil change is for certain going to pull out the metal from that part-matching.
ALWAYS have someone away from your vehicle, but where they can see your undercarriage while you are breaking in your motor. They should be looking for gasoline leaks, p/s leaks, oil leaks, fire, or exhaust overheating that starts glowing.
Large, spare fire extinguisher handy is recommended.
I had to replace both of those cats within 2,000 miles after that stunt, so... you can learn proactively from my mistake here!
As for oil and break-in, you want actual dino oil, not synthetic.
Engine break-in differs if you have a new cam or not.
First oil change should be early. Remember, you cross-hatched your cylinder liners and have new piston rings... they are going to be shedding metal as they adapt to each other (cross-hatching wears per ring size)... so your first oil change is for certain going to pull out the metal from that part-matching.
ALWAYS have someone away from your vehicle, but where they can see your undercarriage while you are breaking in your motor. They should be looking for gasoline leaks, p/s leaks, oil leaks, fire, or exhaust overheating that starts glowing.
Large, spare fire extinguisher handy is recommended.
Last edited by No Doubt; 01-10-2020 at 11:19 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by No Doubt:
Bal D Correa (01-11-2020),
Sixpack577 (01-11-2020)