Breaking in rebuilt engine
#11
01-11-2020, 08:22 AM
You have exhaust wrap insulation on your headers. I tried that on my rebuild and had to shut down my motor in less than 1 minute because my cats couldn't handle the heat and started glowing orange.
I had to replace both of those cats within 2,000 miles after that stunt, so... you can learn proactively from my mistake here!
As for oil and break-in, you want actual dino oil, not synthetic.
Engine break-in differs if you have a new cam or not.
First oil change should be early. Remember, you cross-hatched your cylinder liners and have new piston rings... they are going to be shedding metal as they adapt to each other (cross-hatching wears per ring size)... so your first oil change is for certain going to pull out the metal from that part-matching.
ALWAYS have someone away from your vehicle, but where they can see your undercarriage while you are breaking in your motor. They should be looking for gasoline leaks, p/s leaks, oil leaks, fire, or exhaust overheating that starts glowing.
Large, spare fire extinguisher handy is recommended.
I had to replace both of those cats within 2,000 miles after that stunt, so... you can learn proactively from my mistake here!
As for oil and break-in, you want actual dino oil, not synthetic.
Engine break-in differs if you have a new cam or not.
First oil change should be early. Remember, you cross-hatched your cylinder liners and have new piston rings... they are going to be shedding metal as they adapt to each other (cross-hatching wears per ring size)... so your first oil change is for certain going to pull out the metal from that part-matching.
ALWAYS have someone away from your vehicle, but where they can see your undercarriage while you are breaking in your motor. They should be looking for gasoline leaks, p/s leaks, oil leaks, fire, or exhaust overheating that starts glowing.
Large, spare fire extinguisher handy is recommended.
I will remove the wrapping today.
I do have a new camshaft, camshaft bearings, tappets and push rods. That is why I was thinking about running the engine at 2k revs, is that correct?
Do you have any recommendations for the oil and how soon to change it?
I really appreciate your help.
#12
01-11-2020, 01:02 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Thank you so much for all that info!
I will remove the wrapping today.
I do have a new camshaft, camshaft bearings, tappets and push rods. That is why I was thinking about running the engine at 2k revs, is that correct?
Do you have any recommendations for the oil and how soon to change it?
I really appreciate your help.
I will remove the wrapping today.
I do have a new camshaft, camshaft bearings, tappets and push rods. That is why I was thinking about running the engine at 2k revs, is that correct?
Do you have any recommendations for the oil and how soon to change it?
I really appreciate your help.
Your cam should have come with break-in instructions (follow those!), but the typical break-in for a new cam is to start the motor and verify that your red oil pressure light turns off, and then once it has turned off rev above 2,500 rpms and hold for at least 20 minutes (with someone outside watching the undercarriage from a safe distance). Turn off. Inspect vehicle again with motor off. Then drive for 20 miles if safe and change the oil after that.
Next oil change at 500 miles.
Subsequent oil change every 3,000 miles or whatever you are comfortable with.
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