@logicmike44 Is that grit loose or baked on, it looks like crap form a failed rad or heater core

Next replace those ancient hoses and that yellow thermostat - that stuff is long past it best due date and badly compromised. Your temps are fine for the thermostat you have, but all the hoses look like they are original and they have had it. The plastic T just failed it is likely nearly 20 years old.

You cannot keep that stuff, buy replacements from rockauto and get a 180 grey or black thermostat

 

X2. you've come this far. replace every piece of hose and plastic in your cooling system. replace the thermostat, and replace the water pump and fan/clutch for good measure. then try running it again.

 

...thanks for the speedy responses.

The grit is loose, and here's a few more photos from what was left in the catch tub underneath when i removed the lower radiator hose.
Doing the work in a non-house garage , no access to hose to attempt flushing Rad and HC. Will tackle removal, off-site flushing, and most likely replacing.
I they are both clear, safe to assume cracked block...??
Would a cracked block idle without overheating?
Do cracked blocks only show symptoms when under loads ?

the white specs are from the flash...believe were silver/metallic in color

some of the larger pieces must be from the lower frame, hopefully all did not come from radiator

 

@logicmike44 you are not even close to overheating those are normal temps for your thermostat - start by getting that out of your head.

Start logically you have ancient hoses and plastic that is starting to fail, as far as I know you can not even get the cooling system hose parts you have any more.

• So deep breath replace the hose clamps with standard ones from your auto parts store.
• replace all the old ones and put everything back together
• Raise the coolant tank and top up the coolant
• Start your truck leave the rad cap off coolant tank still high
• Let it warm up bring then bring the revs' up watch your temps
• Any air bubbles in the front of the tank ? moving fluid is ok and normal

I do not believe you can have a cracked block and not overheat and significantly over pressure. You could have a bad rad cap as well

 

Whatever you do, do NOT put more plastic thermostat crap in there. Get an inline thermostat and install it the first time with NO thermostat element in it. See the official inline thermostat thread at the top of the forum. Let's see what the temps come down to. It is a good idea to replace everything non-metal in the cooling system (including radiatoer because it has plastic end tanks and coolant bottle), yours is clearly 20yo and badly deteriorated. After replacing the parts run the system with the cap one turn loose and no thermostat first, lets see how it does. That way if it is building pressure at least you don't blow up another hose

 

I think he’s getting a ton of pressure in the system. Blowing hoses etc. Is the coolant bubbling in the tank ??? How high do temps go ??

 

@redwhitekat normal for a white thermostat 210 max but his cooling system hoses are ancient - he still has an upper rad hose with the the bleeder in hose, and I do not believe he has changed the thermostat. It looked like the plastic T failed, could even be a bad rad cap at this point.

 

...grabbed a temp gun and let it idle to running temp for about 20min.
recorded below temps, Once it reached 208, light smoke out of tailpipe, shut it off. Medium to hot heat in cab for 20min.

Temps from Radiator upper, lower, heater core in out temps.

I hear everyone loud and clear and will now begin replacing old hoses, waterpump, radiator, and look into the inline thermostat.
All else fails after may need to redo head gaskets given recent smoke out the back, although could have been result of extreme pressure again or I'll need to go back in...

Just want to get it done before winter


Heater Core 1

Heater Core 2

Rad Lower hose

engine out


waterpump out to thermo

 

I think you might have a bad sensor, your engine out temp should be much closer to the intake manifold outlet.

 

No more bubbling in tank since head gasket replacement, although 2 out of 4 bleeds, i have been able to get hot heat, with idle temp 208-210.
Replacing more parts next, but what are primary things that cause high pressure in cooling system?
It's just strange that if i get heat, would that mean heater core is not clogged?
and
what are clogged radiator symptoms?
System seems fine at idle, under 20% load. It's the light test drive around the block when temps climb to 224, 232+