Ok, so the rear joints cost $200 to replace. Do I need to replace those too? How much should I expect to pay to have the front UJ's replaced? If it's not too much I'll probably just do it, rather than have to go through the hassle of filing a warranty claim on a new tranny and drive shaft, Yikes! Thanks for the tip!

I downloaded that file, but my comp couldn't open it. Had to download additional software in order to copy it to disk, only to discover that my laptop's cd burner is fried [:@]

 

Fonzie,

I highly recommend you pay to have the U-joints done in a shop, because it can really get nasty. At least with me it did. If you want to save a little bit of cash, you can remove the driveshaft yourself and carry it in your beater, if you have one, to a shop that will take care of everything else. When you remove it, just be sure to mark the attachment points with a paint marker so you can putthe drive shaftback on exactly the way it was.

The local guy who does it charged 75 for the joints, 35 for the centering ball in the Hookes joint(the double knucle joint) for labor, and the joints run about 17-20 dollars a piece. Some of the local recommendations were for Precision brand joints, but alot of ppl here have used Neapo with no issues. I don't think Precision manufactures the ball joint, it will most likely be Neapo. You can go higher than that if you want (gold seal, I think).

The reason we stress putting in greasable u-joints is that they can fail without warning, and smack your tranny and t-case out to the tune of about 3000 dollars. I've been getting a cricketting whine and vibration at high speeds in my truck, so I am changing them out pronto. The shaft is at the shop now.

I know you've heard the horror stories, but if you stay up on your services and inspect according to the Rave manual, you'll have a great truck.

 

I can definitely handle removing the shaft. I've replaced a few u-joints in my past too, with no problems. But I'd rather not get that involved in wrenching anymore, I don't enjoy it like I used to and there's other things I'd rather/have tobe doing.

Do I need tobring the shaft to a Rover specialist or will any reputable drive-line shop be ok? Do I need to get the shaft balanced too?

I actually do hear a feint rythmic whirringnoise coming from the front undercarriage that increases with road speed. Could it be my UJ's? I put it down to either; normal 4x4 drivetrain noise or perhapsa flat-spot on my well worn front tires (replacing soon)

 

Criminy really? I'll let you know what mine sounds like after I've put the prop shaft on, or you can e-mail me if you finish first. That's what it could be, the noise was very faint on mine and got progressively worse. I'm really hoping it isn't a bearing in the t-case.

I agree, It's getting fast to the point where I'm going to be choosy on what I wrench on. Ireallysaved some cash doing the wires and rocker cover gaskets myself, but the drive shaft was a waste of a saturday. On that note, the screws for the rocker cover will work their way out, so make sure there is no oil on the rocker cover gaskets. At the first sign, make sure those screws are torqued properly. I can't remember whatthe settingis. You'll need an 8mm 12 point 1/4 inch drive to do it.

She's a good looking truck, I like some of the cosmetics on the SE. On the front end especially. Any other odd gremlins creeping out? They will do it to you.

 

I meant the 2 non-servicable joints in the rear of the front shaft. Probably get the whole shaft done for that price...(front driveshaft)