My electric a/c condenser fan: trans. cooler fan has completely froze up & I'm going to replace it. What I need to know is whether it is a pusher or a puller fan(?) & how many cfm the fan is. I have several elec. fans here but not sure witch one to use. I found a stock used for $150 & a new one for $400. I'd rather not pay tha much considerring I have several fans I've accummulated. I just need to know which one to use. The Fact man. wasn't too helpfull. I have already changed out ALL the fluid & filter & am in the middle of swapping out the front u-joints/cv ball. NAPA! had it all! Dropped the prop. shaft 2day. New precision bearings in tomarrow.
The hope is for the prop. shaft & fan to be in Mon. & going good. I have work to do & I am counting on the Rover!
Thanx!
rlcj!

 

The fan air flow goes toward the engine block. That usually means the cupped side of the blades goes engine side. The factory manual assumes you will use a factory part, not multiple choice after market. This is also something that is like $30 at a salvage yard, in case that is an option. There is no separate thermostat for this fan, the ECU decides when to turn on that fan relay based on engine temp sensor.

Note: if blades (or DC polarity wires) are reversed, and you have condenser fan blowing out the front of the truck and the radiator fan blowing out the back of the package, the air flow in the middle is reduced at idle and low speeds and you over heat. My PO left that for me to "Discover". You can also reverse the main fan blades and have a similar effect. Seems like when I measured the feet per minute air flow speed it was about a 1/3 boost when electric fans turned on, but that was a D1 which has two fans. Note that meter has not done the math for cubic feet values, just speed of air. When driving down the road at 50 mph, no fan is needed, in a pinch you can drive home with a wobbly water pump and no fan, so if pump fails, no baldes through radiator and hood.

As for CFM, try to go one or two inch larger fan. Don't go smaller. Fan in a D2 cycles on when needed at lower speeds for AC condenser cooling (to reduce head pressure in compressor), and when coolant is above 212F, to supplement cooling. If coming on all the time and burning out, may indicate you are getting to 212 too often, and your viscous fan clutch could be toast as well. If viscous fan bad, water pump is usually following the same path as they always hold hands.

A Chevy fan clutch will work on a D1 or D2, about $50, It is six inch, reverse rotation. You can also snag from junk yard in a pinch, heres a pix of 2001 Blazer clutch and fan I use. You can see it fits stock D1 fan also. Does move more air. Screws up to same water pump.

 

You can pull the fan blades off of your old unit and install them onto a new motor.
I know on the DI the pancake motor is a Denso, also used by Toyota in the Corolla.

 

I have two 14" reversible 1650 cfm fans. Think that should do it? I tried a small 13" & it wasn't enough. The engine isn't overheating @ all but the trans. temp. light is comming on during short trips. Not long trips @ all, only on 2-3 mi. trips from home. It goes out as soon as it get moving & the air flow starts moving. I can get a used stock fan for $150 + tax and shipping or a new one for $400. There isn't any DS2's in the J/Y's around here. Good point with the viscious fan clutch. I think I will try to replace it too. Good info on that swap! Thanx! I'll try to keep ya'll posted.

 

The tranny warning light coming on points at low air flow by your main fan. Under normal conditions in cool weather, without air conditioning on, and electric fans off, and coolant temp below 212F, tranny oil cooler depends on main fan flow when going slow or idle. Certainly check your viscous clutch today. When warmed up, engine off, spin and release: less than 1/4 turn it is locking up, more than 1 turn it is failing. When silicone fluid is lost from inside the clutch, it will eventually "free-wheel, and it does not couple at the correct power level to move enough air at low speed and idle (short trips, assumes they are not of the 1/4 mile variety).

A transmission costs a lot more than a fan clutch. Head gaskets or a whole engine also are kind of pricey.

You would also want to be looking into checking your tranny fluid level, and changing fluid as part of regular scheduled service. The fluid is not "lifetime".

 

It is very common for the trans temp sensor to go bad and send false trans overheating signals.
The electric fans provide NO engine cooling, only a/c cooling.

 

re: The electric fans provide NO engine cooling, only a/c cooling.

Well, they do increase air flow, I can measure about 25% increase on my D1 (has two fans) when they turn on. And on the D2, they are rated to turn on at 212, even if AC is off. So if they didn't provide any cooling other than AC, why would they switch them on? But I would agree that they don't provide much cooling, more like a boost; their primary job is AC compressor cooling (head pressure), and they also are set to provide some cooling after switch off in certain hot conditions.

I'd say that "NO" could be replaced with "not much" - the main fan does most of the work until you get up to roadway speed.

 

Kind of got sidetracked, haven't done anything to it yet.
I'm not driving it tho until I get the trans. cooling right.
I did recently have the trans. fluid flushed & filled & the filter changed.
It was the first thing I did when the light shortly came on. I figured the fluid was toast & boiling @ a lower temp.
When that didn't fix the prob. is when I discovered the elec. fan was shot.
The weird thing is that my wife drove it 25 mi. to work & back in traffic & it never happened to her. 45mph speed zone so it mucst be good airflow
If & drive it 2 miles thu the neighberhood to the grocery store it will come on right when I get their. It will also come on it I let it sit & idle for a long period of time.
The cluch fan seems to be working. I checked it as you reccomened. I do like the bigger fan from the blazer tho, nice trick. I'd like to switch mine over while I'm @ it. Couldn't hurt here in FL. You say that it will bolt up fine with no modifications?
I'm going to spray the rad. coils out good with a hose & air gun, it looks kind of dirty. Then I'll install these two fans & ley you all know how it's doing.
Thanx

 

You have to trim the nylon fan blades if swapping fan. The water pump is same thread and the same reverse direction.

Might want to have an infrared point and shoot thermometer, and make some measurements of the tranny radiator in the same spots. The sensor screws in to the bottom corner I believe. Like Spike says, you might be chasing a bad sensor. But if you are not, it could be more costly.

Could also be poor flow like you said, my condenser and rad were full of leaves and mud between them, and that made a difference when I washed them out. Lay off the pressure washer though, it can cut the thin aluminum. On a D1 this is a hidden space, have to pull out rubber strips to access it. The D2s I've seen at the salvage yard have already been opened up, I know that some have both a tranny cooler and an oil cooler, and some skip the oil cooler.

 

Got it taken care of & been driving it.
I installed a 14" 2,700cfm puller fan. Sorry it took so long to get back to this post. Thanks for all the help!