I posed the question on another thread with heated-seat activation switches but got zero feedback. I got the housing but left the differential gear set as I did not have a 24mm socket on-hand to get the rear output flange off. My gearbox is quiet, smooth, strong. I want to use as much of mine as possible so swapping upgraded housing only is ideal. I have read where most replace the whole gear set with the housing and others that said "why are you doing so much work, dummy? Just switch-out the nose cone!" I asked a couple good references but didn't get the specific answer that I'm looking for.
According to RAVE, pre '03 and post '03 LT230se is 99.9% identical in the diff-gear set. I have my 20-odd mm sockets now, so I can go back for the rest but I'm not going to do all of that if I don't have to.

In my mind's eye I am replacing the front output oil seal on the new unit; the only disassembly I want to do is front drive flange only to replace the seal and washers. I need to clean it out too. I don't want to remove the side-plate or detent assembly for the engagement shaft so what's the best way to flush out the front housing without taking it apart?

If anyone has a write-up or just a detailed step-by-step on removal of current housing and install of upgraded version, I could use it. I'm curious about the plug-&-play aspect: will my truck have the pigtails/harness/Lucas contacts? I just thought about the Hi-Low selector shaft and housing, so there's that too. Which settings should I have engaged for everything to slide together and bolt up without having any loose ends or hiccups in the linkage right at the transferbox itself? I don't want to F*** this up, so I need detailed insight and instructions made available. Please and thank you.

At the moment, solenoid activation is what I'm after. I'm not going to buy some dumb $400 kit when I can get any old motor from the scrap yard for $20. Any ideas on this? Examples of motors others have used? I can fab any kind of bracket and bracing but I'm not real familiar with small automotive window and door units associated with the rotating of CDL input mechanism.

 

you can use any 12 volt motor you choose but you will have to add limit switches to the motor. that way the motor will stop when it reaches full locked or full open, other wise the motor will keep trying to turn.

 

limit switches, huh? Never heard of it. I will investigate. what about the housing swap and the diff gears? do you know anything about that?

 

2003CDLInstall - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.

 

does the D2 window motor have enough guts to turn the diff-lock spigot? I'm going to the salvage yard tomorrow to pick one up and see if it will work. What's the best way to see if the motor actually works? I don't fiddle with electronics very much so i don't have a healthy knowledge base. I was thinking about jumping it from my car battery but I don't know if that will fry the little window motor or not.