Thank you - I found this: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-method-92975/

It seems like I have to locate a rubber plug in the transmission housing then stick a deep socket through it, which I might not have. Supposedly the rubber plug might not go back in or might not seal after being removed.

I think I’m going to try the wood block method and see if I can manage that first, since it’s a dummy method I think I can handle, but I might have to try that if I can’t get it like this.

Thanks for that explanation. I’d heard of that method, but didn’t really understand it. I think I have a better idea of what it requires now. Maybe some of the comments have more ideas that might help like using a socket size I might have.

 

Yep, that's the post.

The plug will go in just fine, not an issue. I didn't use the wood block method since it's putting more lateral stress on the crankcase wall than I'm comfortable with, but that's just me. And the socket/flywheel method is so much more elegant and just as quick.

 

Hmm, maybe I’ll try it after all - I’d hate to break something else and this aluminum seems to want to break everywhere. Did you use a deep socket or were you able to manage with a regular depth socket? I’ll have to see if I have one that’ll fit a 1/2” that’ll work for this…

 

Exactly. I ordered a deep socket just for that reason, but honestly, the overall idea is just to jam something in the hole of the flywheel. That socket he mentions (19mm?) fits perfectly, but I'm sure you can get by just fine with something similar in size.

 

Cool, I’ll have to see what I’ve got as far as deep sockets the are 1/2” drive. He wrote “3/4” socket” so yeah about 19mm. Finally cool enough outside to start trying, so I’ll see if I have a socket and hopefully make some progress! Any tips on pulling the rubber plug on the transmission housing?

 

It just pops out with a small pry from a screwdriver. It's just a dust cover.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a try. Hopefully I don't break anything - the metal on metal and cranking is making a bit nervous, but I really need some luck, so I'll just go for it. Basically, as I understand, the socket with the extension goes into the dust cover hole (inspection hole?) then through a hole in the flywheel, which is as far as I want to put the socket in, then I'll turn the engine with the breaker bar until

 

Just stick a 2x4 so that as the crank turns it wedges the 2x4 between the block and the crank. Then you can loosen the HB bolt with a long breaker.

 

Can the wood block be anywhere or does it need to be somewhere specific? With the way the engine is, I managed to put a 2x4 between the very back piston counterweight and the block. I’m a little confused about the flywheel method - not sure exactly how far to put the socket and if it’s supposed to fit exactly into something (flywheel hole?), but any of these methods is making me worried I’ll break something else.

 

Thank you all - I decided to try the wood block method first since I'm very new to this and somehow it seemed the most low-tech. I'll have to remember the other methods for times when I don't need to remove the sump, but I had to do that in this case (plan is to remove front cover and replace, along with with timing chain/wheels). About the wood block, I used a shorter 1/2" socket wrench from underneath with a 15/16" socket on the crank shaft bolt to turn the engine until I get the wood block settled in a good place (between a thick part of the engine block and a piston counterweight - the rearmost pistons as they seemed the most heavy for some reason). Then I got under the hood on a step ladder (since I have the vehicle on jack stands pretty high right now) with a 4' breaker bar (3/4" drive) with a 15/16" socket and loosened the bolt, which came off surprisingly easily. I felt stupid for worrying so much about this. I'm glad that was so easy - I can't see it being a problem to tighten it back with a torque wrench.

It's hard to see the cam bearings clearly and it's hot as hell where I am with deer flies and mosquitoes that don't leave you alone, so I didn't have as much patience as it would require to give a very careful inspection, but I don't think there are any walked cam bearings - nothing stuck out to me, at least. Also, I'm afraid to find something like that since this is a big enough for job me. I figured that I might look later if I try to do the head gaskets another time, which I've heard is a good time to look at the cam bearings and deal with them. I figured that either way, I have to just get it going again for now, but I took pictures of the harmonic balancer and the cam bearings (the best I could - it's not easy with a phone in there).

The harmonic balancer slid off easily as well - I just wiggled it a little and it came off in a hurry. It looks like it had been leaking from the front oil seal - the new front cover I got has a Corteco seal I installed, so hopefully that works better. I read that I should grease the inside of the seal with something like Syl Glide (manual says Retinax LX, which I couldn't find).

The harmonic balancer has a rubber part on it that's cracking - not terribly, but not looking good either. It looks like the keyway is a bit damaged, but that might just be how they are.

Can anyone advise me if I should install a "top hat" or sleeve and exactly how I should do that? I have an SKF Speedi-Sleeve part 99192 in case it's needed. I believe it includes a piece that's used to press it onto the crankshaft. Someone said they used blue Loctite on theirs to cement it. If I need to install this, please give detailed information of exactly how I should do this, so I don't screw something up - I've kept this rover going myself for about 5 years until I broke the front cover attempting an oil pressure test, so I'm not exactly a good mechanic at all.

If there's something specific in any of these images, please let me know.

Thank you all for your help - I'm hoping to get this done this week and hopefully it'll run well. I have a timing chain kit from Atlantic British that I'm being strongly advised to use. Tomorrow I'll remove the front cover and get some pictures or a video of the chain. I've been told it's best to get that done now - I'm into preventative maintenance in this case, since I don't want to have to lift the car up like this again and remove the sump and all that. I'm on dirt/gravel/mulch and a slope, so it's not ideal for lifting with jack stands here, but I have to do it. No mechanic would touch this and anyway it would just cost a ton. There were some neighbors who said they could help, but they're full of it - I'm on my own here and I appreciate any help.