Cam bearing inspection viewed from sump
#22
This is the area you need to inspect.
At each point where the cam go through the block you need to look and see if there is any bearing protruding. This one looks perfect, but check both sides where the cam passes through the block. At the ends front and rear of course there is only one side. Rotate the engine by putting the HB bolt back in the crank nose and rotating the crank till you can see each one clearly.
At each point where the cam go through the block you need to look and see if there is any bearing protruding. This one looks perfect, but check both sides where the cam passes through the block. At the ends front and rear of course there is only one side. Rotate the engine by putting the HB bolt back in the crank nose and rotating the crank till you can see each one clearly.
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Brandon318 (07-28-2022),
neuropathy (07-25-2022)
#23
I see - I’ll try to look more closely today. There are 5 bearings right? Is it a problem to rotate the engine without any oil in it? I heard the pistons working in the cylinders when turning it using a wrench from underneath to get the wood block in place. Do I need to only rotate the engine one direction, like turning the wrench toward the driver’s side, opposite from loosening the crank bolt or is it fine if it rotates either direction?
#24
I typically rotate in the direction it fires but it's not a problem to go the reverse direction. Not sure where you landed on removing the spark plugs but it's WAY easier to rotate the crank with them out. I would do it. Regarding the oil, you will not damage anything by rotating the engine by hand "dry".
The following 2 users liked this post by ahab:
Brandon318 (07-28-2022),
neuropathy (07-25-2022)
#25
Thanks, yeah it’s tough cranking it without the plugs removed, but I have the truck lifted on jack stands and it’s hard to work under the hood right now. I was able to turn the engine with a shorter (maybe 16”) 1/2” drive socket wrench from underneath, so I’ll do that again and try to look carefully at the bearings. It’s hard to see through the pistons and weights, but I’ll do my best. When turning in the direction of engine rotation, does that mean the wrench will spin toward the driver’s side if it’s help at 12 o clock on the crank bolt? Also, does the spacer go on one way or the other, or is it reversible?
#26
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neuropathy (07-25-2022)
#27
The following users liked this post:
Brandon318 (07-28-2022)
#28
Cam inspection seems ok but cross hatching seen in liners
I put the crank bolt and large washer back on to spin the engine in order to look at the cam bearings. I looked at all five and they seem ok to me. At most there’s maybe a millimeter of the edge of a bearing visible here or there, but that might just be me seeing things and actually not anything sticking out at all. I had a hard time getting pictures of anything (it’s dark and had focus issues). I apologize for the lousy photos.
The cam bearings all look pretty much the same - I don’t see a big shiny part sticking out of the block anywhere, pretty sure they’re all intact.
Also, these images show the cross hatching I’ve read about on the cylinder liners. Did that happen just now from turning the engine by hand while it’s dry? Oil was drained a few months ago, so it’s pretty dry, still some dripping out and it turns though. Does that mean the cylinder sleeves are probably slipping?
Thank you
The cam bearings all look pretty much the same - I don’t see a big shiny part sticking out of the block anywhere, pretty sure they’re all intact.
Also, these images show the cross hatching I’ve read about on the cylinder liners. Did that happen just now from turning the engine by hand while it’s dry? Oil was drained a few months ago, so it’s pretty dry, still some dripping out and it turns though. Does that mean the cylinder sleeves are probably slipping?
Thank you
Last edited by neuropathy; 07-31-2022 at 04:37 AM.
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