Can I blame the Blue Devil?
Winching
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 595
Likes: 25
From: Philadelphia,Pa
you need to set up your own oil pressure gauge. The idiot light on the truck is just that. I have the scanguageII it does all it needs to do, and then some. Most folks here do the sandwich filter attachment for the oil pressure gauge. will cost you about 100 bucks. With your temps you might be able to run the 15-40 rotella for a few months. And in my opinion it is worth it. These old push rod engines can use all the help you can give them. I run it all year round I know phily does not get the cold you get all winter but we have nada few cold winters. Also you really should not flush as often as what you have in the short period of time. change out your oil and filter put in the better heavy duty diesal oil such as rotella and go have fun.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 798
Likes: 3
From: Las Vegas Nevada
no real time oil pressure in the D2 computer. The scan gauge hooks into the obd2 and only that.
Also, If you have had this knock/tick before the incident, like I said, do not run 15w40 like suggested by others. It'll make the knock worse if you have clogged hydraulic lifters.
Also, If you have had this knock/tick before the incident, like I said, do not run 15w40 like suggested by others. It'll make the knock worse if you have clogged hydraulic lifters.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 32
From: Austin, TX
Powderhound: Yeah, no problem, no sense in getting yourself worked up by thinking the worst! I'd get a ScanGaugeII, they will read everything the D2 ECU reads iirc.
OFFTOPIC: Ralph, where'd you get those D1 switches. I can't find them. I can only find the thinger that the switches actually go in, just not the switches themselves.
OFFTOPIC: Ralph, where'd you get those D1 switches. I can't find them. I can only find the thinger that the switches actually go in, just not the switches themselves.
Picked them up from the salvage yard. One of those you pull its. They had several Disco 1's and I scavenged them from it.
Edit: Also can be found on eBay.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 32
From: Austin, TX
Ultra guages are nice and only $70! Or this guy reads ABS codes too: Robot Check
Oh and RALPH! SWEET SETUP WITH THE SIRIUS/ RADIO! Would love to hear about how you did it... Looking to do that to my truck
Oh and RALPH! SWEET SETUP WITH THE SIRIUS/ RADIO! Would love to hear about how you did it... Looking to do that to my truck
Miccus Mini Jack TX Wireless Music Transmitter for Players w Out Bluetooth RFB | eBay
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 52
From: Tampa, FL
Since no one has explained it -
The main reason to run a diesel oil is it has more ZDDP which helps reduce valve train wear in flat tappet camshaft engines. The secondary reason to run a diesel oil is it has more detergent, and these engines seem to run very dirty. It's so cold where you live you could run 5w-30, but you'd lose the ZDDP (they don't make a diesel 5w-30 AFAIK), which is bad.
There is no advantage to running 15w-40 besides the fact that it is cheaper. I've been running 5w-40 for a year in warm temps and have had no additional leakage. Most engine wear happens immediately after startup (especially when ambient temps are cold), and the cold 5w will lubricate faster than a cold 15w.
This forum loves Rotella 15w-40 for some reason, but my truck and my van both sounded terrible running it. I barely made it to 3k miles before changing it, and I'll never run it again. Both Rotella T6 and M1 TDT are much better oils IMO. And with your ambient temps, they are a much more appropriate choice.
The main reason to run a diesel oil is it has more ZDDP which helps reduce valve train wear in flat tappet camshaft engines. The secondary reason to run a diesel oil is it has more detergent, and these engines seem to run very dirty. It's so cold where you live you could run 5w-30, but you'd lose the ZDDP (they don't make a diesel 5w-30 AFAIK), which is bad.
There is no advantage to running 15w-40 besides the fact that it is cheaper. I've been running 5w-40 for a year in warm temps and have had no additional leakage. Most engine wear happens immediately after startup (especially when ambient temps are cold), and the cold 5w will lubricate faster than a cold 15w.
This forum loves Rotella 15w-40 for some reason, but my truck and my van both sounded terrible running it. I barely made it to 3k miles before changing it, and I'll never run it again. Both Rotella T6 and M1 TDT are much better oils IMO. And with your ambient temps, they are a much more appropriate choice.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 798
Likes: 3
From: Las Vegas Nevada
Since no one has explained it -
The main reason to run a diesel oil is it has more ZDDP which helps reduce valve train wear in flat tappet camshaft engines. The secondary reason to run a diesel oil is it has more detergent, and these engines seem to run very dirty. It's so cold where you live you could run 5w-30, but you'd lose the ZDDP (they don't make a diesel 5w-30 AFAIK), which is bad.
There is no advantage to running 15w-40 besides the fact that it is cheaper. I've been running 5w-40 for a year in warm temps and have had no additional leakage. Most engine wear happens immediately after startup (especially when ambient temps are cold), and the cold 5w will lubricate faster than a cold 15w.
This forum loves Rotella 15w-40 for some reason, but my truck and my van both sounded terrible running it. I barely made it to 3k miles before changing it, and I'll never run it again. Both Rotella T6 and M1 TDT are much better oils IMO. And with your ambient temps, they are a much more appropriate choice.
The main reason to run a diesel oil is it has more ZDDP which helps reduce valve train wear in flat tappet camshaft engines. The secondary reason to run a diesel oil is it has more detergent, and these engines seem to run very dirty. It's so cold where you live you could run 5w-30, but you'd lose the ZDDP (they don't make a diesel 5w-30 AFAIK), which is bad.
There is no advantage to running 15w-40 besides the fact that it is cheaper. I've been running 5w-40 for a year in warm temps and have had no additional leakage. Most engine wear happens immediately after startup (especially when ambient temps are cold), and the cold 5w will lubricate faster than a cold 15w.
This forum loves Rotella 15w-40 for some reason, but my truck and my van both sounded terrible running it. I barely made it to 3k miles before changing it, and I'll never run it again. Both Rotella T6 and M1 TDT are much better oils IMO. And with your ambient temps, they are a much more appropriate choice.
We talked about the zinc, just buy the 8$ bottle of it and add it in each oil change if you really think its worth it.
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Got my Glow Shift Oil pressure gauge in the mail Friday and installed it this morning. Great little gadget, couldn't have been easier to install.
Took it for a drive up the mountain and back and when I would stop at stop signs oil pressure at idle was a solid 14PSI. After about 30 minutes I put it back in my driveway and just before I was turning it off the pressure was holding at 9psi at idle. A little below the Rave threshold.
Think that is grounds for dropping the oil pan and cleaning everything out or is there a better path forward to try and get idle oil pressure up a hair?
Took it for a drive up the mountain and back and when I would stop at stop signs oil pressure at idle was a solid 14PSI. After about 30 minutes I put it back in my driveway and just before I was turning it off the pressure was holding at 9psi at idle. A little below the Rave threshold.
Think that is grounds for dropping the oil pan and cleaning everything out or is there a better path forward to try and get idle oil pressure up a hair?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 798
Likes: 3
From: Las Vegas Nevada
Your main bearings are probably worn. You could pull the pan and clean it out, when I did it must of had 2-3" of carbon buildup on the bottom of the pan. I would pull the oil pickup tube also and clean it while your down there, replace the o-ring, and torque it to spec back on there.
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
2-3 inches of carbon might explain why she doesn't take a full load of oil. I can only get ~5.5-6 qts in before she's full, which has led me to believe that sludge and carbon are occupying a significant amount of volume in the block.
I'm ordering the sump gasket and pick up o-ring today so they're here for next weekend.
Any gamblers out there can place bets on how long I spend getting the old gasket off. If it's anything like my waterpump experience it'll be a case of beer and three evenings.
I'm ordering the sump gasket and pick up o-ring today so they're here for next weekend.
Any gamblers out there can place bets on how long I spend getting the old gasket off. If it's anything like my waterpump experience it'll be a case of beer and three evenings.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,064
Likes: 16
From: San Antonio,Tx
2-3 inches of carbon might explain why she doesn't take a full load of oil. I can only get ~5.5-6 qts in before she's full, which has led me to believe that sludge and carbon are occupying a significant amount of volume in the block.
I'm ordering the sump gasket and pick up o-ring today so they're here for next weekend.
Any gamblers out there can place bets on how long I spend getting the old gasket off. If it's anything like my waterpump experience it'll be a case of beer and three evenings.
I'm ordering the sump gasket and pick up o-ring today so they're here for next weekend.
Any gamblers out there can place bets on how long I spend getting the old gasket off. If it's anything like my waterpump experience it'll be a case of beer and three evenings.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9009B
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8979
Last edited by Jared9220; May 31, 2014 at 04:51 PM.
