The wiring is decent gauge, Check what amp fuse is recommended for the heated screen. I wouldnt doubt you could safely run two spots or floods from the factory wiring. The plugs are for left and right heating elements so no funky wiring there.

 

Now THAT is an answer! Thanks Vette!


Take notice WWNTI's (Won't Work Never Tried It)

 

Sure thing
The only issue I forsee is that I *think* the heated screen is controlled by the automatic climate control. Mine seems to turn on and off depending on what I have the HVAC set to.
See this thread if you want to stay somewhat factory when adding circuits
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-wiring-65256/

 

10-4. That's interesting about the HVAC issue. I had looked at the link before, good stuff. Actually that is where I got the idea to wire my Hellas to the factory fog light wiring after I installed the ARB.

 

Amps = Watts / Volts

Amps = Hella lights total wattage combined / 12

Things to consider:

1 relay Amp rating
2 fuse Amp rating
3 wire gauge
4 length of wire

 

I recollect having to use my Nanocom to program the BCU to turn on the heated windshield. I am thinking out loud if the OP may need to program the BCU to accept the signal for the aux lights?

 

For saftey in your calculations use 13.8v instead of 12.5v, and you'd be far better off measuring the amperage draw of the lights then use the rated luminecent watt output rating of the bulbs they stick in the systems... things aint 100% effecient by any long stretch haha.

you could also do a redneck test with some extra wire and a voltmeter to find out if each heated windshield harness puts out its own or needs to have a circuit between them to flow power... just see if any of the other breakers and/or fuses are the same size and type to swap in from other systems to see if will even work without a computer reprogram like you might think. that one, I dont know.

after all that though, wiring new lights to the battery with a switch through the firewall plug really shoudlnt take more then 5 minutes worth of time if your really worried about it toss in some inline fuses on the lines you run... you could probably even get away with buttconnectors if you arent up to soldering and shrink tape.

 

He doesn't want to do all the work involved with wires/fuses, if he did, he would be rewiring everything up to the switch so it would be safe, but he doesn't. He wants to get into the wire and just run it straight.

 

I recollect having to use my Nanocom to program the BCU to turn on the heated windshield.

 

The person I bought my D2 from gave me the factory male ends that went out to the "old" heated windshield to use for lighting in the future to make a clean transition with the factory wiring in the cowl...Isn't the switch on the dash timed also? you'd have to do something with that.