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Can someone explain to me basic electrical troubleshooting?
I want to troubleshoot the Safari lights. They're the OEM ones that came with the safari package. I've broken the components, and possible failure points, down to a few locations...
1. The switch on the instrument cluster bezel.
2. The Safari 5000 relay mounted to the engine compartment fuse box.
3. The lights themselves.
4. The wiring in between all the components.
For as adept as I am and mechanicals, I have no clue how to use a multimeter but figured this might be a good project to try and learn how to use one on. How would I go about this?
My guess = 100% the relay with the OEM LR lights. It is a well known part that fails and you can not get them anymore.
If you want it quick and easy go to walmart and buy their 2 light aux wiring harness. Connect it to the Safari 5000 lights, then tap into the wires going back to the OEM switch. However the switch with the OEM setup is a momentary switch. Get a hold of a D2 cruise control switch, and the pigtail. Carefully take the front cover off with the Aux light logo, and transplant it onto the cruise control switch. Now you have an OEM looking switch, but now it latches.
My guess = 100% the relay with the OEM LR lights. It is a well known part that fails and you can not get them anymore.
If you want it quick and easy go to walmart and buy their 2 light aux wiring harness. Connect it to the Safari 5000 lights, then tap into the wires going back to the OEM switch. However the switch with the OEM setup is a momentary switch. Get a hold of a D2 cruise control switch, and the pigtail. Carefully take the front cover off with the Aux light logo, and transplant it onto the cruise control switch. Now you have an OEM looking switch, but now it latches.
Do you have any pics of the relay?
Isnt it just a standard relay style hookup? The switch charges the magnet which allows the secondary circuit to light the lights?
I'll have to run out to the shop and take a picture but the OEM LR 5000 relay, is rather big with what looks more like an ATX plug going to it. The wiring goes to the RF Headlight for the High Beam trigger, aux fuse box for power (relay mounts to back of that actually), and then a lead runs into the D2 to the gauge cluster where the momentary switch is added on the binnacle cover. My Kalahari came with that kit & without a working one of their funky relays = dead in the water. You can use the wires to add an ordinary 30/40AMP relay, but you must install a latching switch vs the momentary the kit originally came with. The little black clip with a silver screw = where a little fuse holder mounts.
I actually found one last month on a junkyard Disco and couldn't believe what I was seeing. Took it home and connected it... only to find that it's either bad, or good but not the problem. Why do they suck so bad? Do they just overheat and die?
Also, was thinking about doing this anyway since I'd prefer them not turn off when I don't want them to, but why does the latching switch matter in this re-wiring project?
You have to have a latching switch with the normal 30/40AMP relay so it engages the 12v to hold the relay and send power to the lights. Without it = relay won't hold and send power to the lights. Honestly I think those relays were just cheap. If they were decent people would still be using them. I've got 5 in a drawer and they're all dead. From what I've heard they could not handle the load, and they failed. You can save about 90% of the OEM Aux light wiring, but you must use a latching switch and a 30/40AMP standard blade relay found at any auto parts store on the electrical isle near the aux lights.
You have to have a latching switch with the normal 30/40AMP relay so it engages the 12v to hold the relay and send power to the lights. Without it = relay won't hold and send power to the lights. Honestly I think those relays were just cheap. If they were decent people would still be using them. I've got 5 in a drawer and they're all dead. From what I've heard they could not handle the load, and they failed. You can save about 90% of the OEM Aux light wiring, but you must use a latching switch and a 30/40AMP standard blade relay found at any auto parts store on the electrical isle near the aux lights.