and for the record I did order a new caliper guide pin kit for the front but for some stupid reason it does not include guide pin bolts!

 

What spike said is true take the two big bolts out and lift the whole thing out as a unit. Also, make sure your turning the right way, its easy to get turned around when your looking at bolts backwards and upside down. Most of the time wacking the handle of your socket ratchet with a hammer is good enough to knock it loose or use a breaker bar.

 

Like most other bolts and screws these come off counter-clockwise right? And I already tried the hammer+ratchet method and that is what stripped the bolt. The bolt is on to tight and by hand I could not budge it so I gave the ratchet afew wacks with the hammer and it forced the socket to move but the bolt still did not budge and now its stripped.

 

The two bolts that are on the caliper are the only ones you need to remove.
If you stripped the bolt then you used the wrong sized socket.
Mine were 1/2" 12point not 13mm like in your link.

 

try an impact wrench. best way to loosen up rusty bolts.

 

Spike I started with a 1/2" point socket. And it is a 6 point not a 12 point. There are 4 bolts total. 2 on the lower end of the caliper housing bracket (19mm 12 point for the front) and 2 smaller 1/2" 6 point bolts on the caliper itself. I cannot very well reach the lower 12 point bolts until I get the caliper itself off and to do that I need to remove the 2 6 point bolts.

 

Looks like I wrote my post while your replys were being written. Just the same, I don't agree that liquid wrench and PB Blaster are the same thing. PB Blaster does a better job but in your case that might not be enough. The bolt heads should never round off if you have the correct size quality socket. If the socket is junk, it will break. If the socket is good and the bolt is siezed up, then the bolt will break. If the socket is good and the bolt head gets rounded off, then the socket slipped while you were beating on the ratchet. At this point, the best bet is to get a socket that is designed to remove bolts with trashed heads: Craftsman 10 pc. Impact Grade Bolt-Out Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Reviews - Craftsman Community

 

You have to take out the two big bolts, you can reach them with an extension and a breaker bar. Its not easy but, it is no way impossible. Rotate the steering wheel to get the whole assembly in better line. The bolts will be tighter then the slide bolts but, they will come out. I have done this numerous times. You dont need to replace the pins, slide the rubber boot back and clean the pin and re-grease. If the slides are rusty hit them with sandpaper.

 

I remember when I was doing my brake job a couple mo the ago I had to lift the truck, put a wrench on the bolts, put a jack stand under the wrench, and lower the truck and use the weight of the truck to free up the bolts. It worked great and saved me a lot of time on the other wheels once I figured this method out. If the bolt head is stripped though, use the impact. And a big hammer.

 

It all comes down to the right tools for the right job; the bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket are 6-point not 12 point 12 mm bolts. You only use a 12 point on a 6 point socket if it has started to round, If not you can be pretty sure that you will round it.
The bolts holding the bracket to the differential housing is a 13mm 12 point socket, these you should not normally have to remove.
You should be able to break the 12mm free with a 24 inch breaker bar and even pressure, not a hammer .yes it is a bitch but my truck lived it life in NH and is now on the sea shore so I know about rusted fasteners.
At this point you have new calipers so you really have nothing to lose by using heat on the old ones, but even heat will not work unless you have socket that fit the bolt head tight, even if you have to drive the socket on there.
You might also want to pick up a can of Sea Foam “Deep Creep”; all penetrating oils are not the same.