Yes, this job blows but it can be done without pulling the cooler lines. I did it without pulling the fan or the AC compressor so it can be done on an '04 at least. I imagine the oil cooler makes the job suck even more. I ended up pulling a few extra screws than I needed to but it got done in the end. I also had a few bolts that were almost siezed in the captive nuts which took way too long to remove. I had to work them back and forth along with lots of PB Blaster to keep from snapping them off.

If I remember correctly, the cooler is captured on the radiator by a hook that wraps around the driver's side. I also had a bit of a struggle squeezing the new radiator back in through the section of hard line off the cooler.

 

My way...

Removed it following dozens of steps, plus bitching ang growling.

Then I sawed off the plastic brackets on the radiator plastic tanks that hold the oil coolers, and secured the coolers to the body sides with no attachment to the radiator.

Next time will come out in 5 minutes, without dismantling anything but removing the fan guard and two screws.

 

Exanet,
I was so mad - I was about to get a hammer in there and start breaking parts off.


Are there screws or clips holding the radiator to the cooler??

I took a break for a few days.
We are moving so I will have a garage again instead of working in the parking lot.

This radiator thing to me is worse than the head gaskets in a way.

I just hope after all that work it helps the temps.
I do see my rad is leaking at the top where the screw holes are.
And seem to be leaking other places too.

Any more hints you guys can toss in here - it will help.
I guess I'll take out the battery box and the air box too.
Don't know how to do those. Back into the Rave.
Thanks.
J

 

Definitely pull the airbox. That's all I had to do - I left the battery in place. I just did this a few weeks ago but I seem to have repressed the memory as I can't for the life of me remember all of the details. I think the airbox comes out if you just take off the cover and pull it straight up. Regarding the oil coolers, they are each held on by two screws, but the slde down into their brackets and that makes it a bitch to remove them because the hard lines to the coolers wrap tightly around the tanks leaving very little room to move.

Regarding the tanks leaking at the shroud mounting screws, seems like this is almost a given. I'm going to figure out a way to keep the shroud in place without those screws. It doesn't go very far when they aren't in place but it does bang around some.

 

04duxlr

You must have been "in the zone" when you got that radiator out.
I am not in the zone at this time...

Thanks for ALL THE ADVICE.
Only two weeks ago.
If you can unrepress some of that bad memory it would help..
Well, I thank you for the cooler screws location.
And HOW to get out the air box..
That helps a lot.

With regard to not putting screws back into the radiator -
you gave me an idea..
Put in a plastic rivet.
Or some such plastic stay.

Just jam in a long plastic rod type of thing and that's probably all it will take to hold that in place.

Humm,
Or a nylon screw.
Actually, that's it.
Nylon screw with a wide head on it.
Problem solved.

If I ever get it out - then that's how I will put it back together.

04duxlr ,
How did you do on the temperature when the new rad was replaced??
What are your running temperatures now?

Did you replace the rad to lower temps, or it was leaking..

Haha, or your were bored??
Somehow, I would find something else to do.
Even cylinder heads.

 

I had to replace mine because it was leaking at the shroud mounting screw on the driver's side. Other than that, the radiator was perfect.

And I hear you on preferring any other project to this one. I replaced the ball joints in my P38 with about 6 hours of effort and stayed pretty clean in the process. The radiator, once the flushing of the engine 3 times, backflushing of the heater core, and bleeding was finished took much longer. Plus I was covered in DexCool and whatever else was in there when it was all over. I even had some of my hair soaked in it. The biggest source of the mess was having to pull the bottom hose every time to drain it. Who was the genius that put the block drains behind the starter and the exhaust where they can't be accessed?

 

Making progress.
Have the radiator loose and it is still attached to the oil and trans coolers.
Removed the airbox.

Going to remove the radiator and coolers as a trio.

But - how to get the quick disconnects off?
looks like the hoses quick disconnect - but there are plastic retainers on the quick disconnects.

Any ideas how those come off?

 

We did not mess with those disconnects when we replaced our radiator this past fall. My suggestion would be to pull the battery and battery box and this will allow you access to the bolts that hold the radiator to the oil coolers.

Many a story on this board about those disconnects popping free after disconnecting/ reconnecting and people then seeing their vital fluids all over the road.

2003 Discovery 133K with all high miles services complete.

 

I hear ya.
Well, I did finally end up pulling the rad out with the coolers and
disconnecting the disconnects.

I did not know enough about how it all fit together until I pulled the rad out of the truck.

Here is the kicker:

After probably 8 hours work --

The new radiator did not change a thing with my temps.
I still go to 210 at idle and the aux fan still comes on.

EXACTLY the same as the old rad.
So, my old rad was probably good.
My old rad had a few leaks, so I think that it was good to get rid of it.

Still have the temps going high to 210F and then the aux fan on at idle.

And if I take off the FAN - temps don't even change that much.
Acts like there is no fan on it.
And, I have a new fan clutch..

Time to buy a nice Saab maybe.
Think I am done beating my head against the wall.

Other than the AUX fan going on - the truck runs perfectly.

 

silly question but is the blade facing the correct direction