So my front driver window is suddenly non operational. Early symptoms were that you press the button and nothing happens, wait several minutes and try again and the window would roll up/down as it should. Today seems its not gonna work at all. Would not be a bad thing except that the window is rolled half way down. All other windows roll up/down as they should. When the button is pressed a faint clicking noise can be heard under the glove box (presumably at the bcu). The front drive motor and regulator were replaced in 2016 with new "Proline" units from Rovers North...

from what Ive read there is a fuse under the hood "F5" that powers front electric windows & power seats. I also gathered that the bcu can be a culprit if both front windows are non operational. However all other windows are operational. Both front seats work as well though the passenger seat fuse burns out frequently. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

The seat fuse is probably a small yellow wire that is rubbing metal under the leather at the bottom rear of the seat. The window motor is shot. Mine failed and had the same symptoms of working sometimes then not at all with just the click noise near the glove box. I would replace the motor and regulator together while you are in there. They are under $100 for both. Good luck.

 

Mentioned above that the regulator and motor were replaced in 2016 with new "Proline" units.

 

My motor was 2 years old when it failed....

 

Rovers North staff swear up and down that their budget "Proline" brand is same standard as Genuine so I want to "PRETEND" the new window motor is NOT the issue. So my question is... if the front passenger window is operational then that rules out the possibility of a fuse of BCU as the culprit?

 

Take the door panel off. Unplug the motor harness. Operate the window switch and test for power at the harness. If you have power at the harness, replace the motor.

 

Hi TRIARR, before you waste your dosh, remove the centre console/cubby box and check the switch plug and socket first which often comes loose. If this works and has power it's invariably the regulator and/or the motor. Make sure you have Gorilla tape before you cut the vapour barrier behind the door card.

TIP: ease the door card off a few millimetres alround and spray the plastic fixings with silicon spray with a straw fitted, it save the fixings snapping off.

 

I would open the switch console and switch the switches from left to right window harness connectors. If it works, then the wire/s got cut off between the door and the frame inside rubber boot. If does not work, refer to suggestions above.

 

X1 ........... Nice one LR03NJ, apart from me not being too au fait with window regs too often.

 

...Catastrophic...

You're in the wrong business chasing fish...you should work for a news machine...where they are using big-old-over-dramatizing words like that...to explain a kid tripping over a stone...lol.


Agree, check for power at the switch (easiest to get at first of all), then move to the door. If you have power at the motor, probably the unit itself...but just be sure you have a good ground for the motor too.


Brian.