I got a new CDL switch yesterday from AB. When I was installing it, I tightened the bolt until it was flush with the t-case and then tightened it just a bit. One of the little prongs came off, so I had to take it out and I was going to solder the two prongs right on there so they wouldn't come off. (it seems like they only use like super glue to attach them)

Anyway, when I pulled the switch out, the bottom was deformed. Where the spring loaded **** pokes out, that bolt part looked like it had been ovaled and the **** that is supposed to poke out was jammed up inside the bolt. Can this be caused by tightening it down too much? It looks like it was forced into something and that's what curved the bolt. When I removed the original, there was no such problem or deformation. Any ideas?

 

Did the new switch have a nut on it? According to rave it is used as a spacer.

 

Ah. You are right. I remember now. The original had a nut on it, but the new one did NOT come with the nut. I ordered a new one yesterday. This time I will remember to put that nut on there.

Well hopefully the second go around will work better than my first attempt but I really love driving around with my entire console completely apart and having the freezing cold air blowing up through the big hole in the middle.

Thanks Jafir. I feel a little silly I didn't catch that.

 

You're lucky you truck isn't leaking coolant like mine was when my whole console was out, the smell was awful.

 

That sounds nasty. I will say though, it's been snowing here, and every now and then, I get a nice wet splash of cold water on my arm or cheek. Not very fun either... and my wife won't ride in it so we have to take her car everywhere

 

I busted off a prong installing mine too. I just mixed some non conductive epoxy, reset the prong, and have been keeping my fingers crossed. So far so good.

 

So why couldn't you soulder the prongs to the little post coming up? It seems like this would give you a much more solid connection

 

Never said you couldn't. Solder would have probably been the better route to take. The switch will never see enough V/A to cause me problems. Further, the circuit is open more than it's closed. If it fails, I'll replace it.

 

Put in the new switch so that the nut does not leave much of the switch to be pushed..
Maybe putting it into CDL really whacks the switch if too much is toward the moving part.

 

Does my Discovery 2001 still have a CDL switch?
I know I can't go to CDL as that mech is missing.
But, if I put it into CDL manually, is that switch and the CDL light still on my dash?