I like the Vale Rossi avatar ...............I'm a fan also I used to race bikes back in the 60's and 70's.

I think that the centering bearing extraction is very much 'luck of the draw' and the tightness of the 'interference' fit in the housing. Some guy in Aus pulled the outer race with a slide hammer extractor whereas mine wouldn't budge even with heat.

 

Thats awesome!!! I currently race with CCS.

 

This is my current weekend blast. Honda CBR600F/FS (F4i) Super review. - CBR Forum - Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR Owners

I wanted a Fireblade but the wife wouldn't allow it.

These are the bikes I finally ended up my racing days riding.

YAMAHA TD2, TD3, TR2, TR3,1970-'72, TD, TR, TA125, AHRMA, VINTAGE RACING, TZ 125, 250, 750, TA, TD, YSR, RD 350, 400, LC, RZ, SR 500, FZ 700, FZR 600, 750, 1000, FAZER, YZF 600 R6, 1000 R1, CONVERSION KIT, REBODY, RACE, DRAG BIKE plus the Kawasaki Z1 - 900 Production Racer. Résultats Google Recherche d'images correspondant à http://www.bikeexif.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/kawasaki-z1.jpg

History : "Z" THE ULTIMATE MOTORCYCLE : Kawasaki Motorcycle & Engine Company

Happy days back then when not in the hospital.

 

I think I've been hijacked!

 

I also used a dremel the cut mine in half, after trying every slide hammer trick I could think of and also heat. That said, it didn't occur to me to just use a pry bar.

If I knew it was $20 to have a machinist pull it, I'd have been very tempted to throw in the towel.

You can probly sell your original shaft for $80-100, maybe more like $150 if you have the parts to rebuild it.

 

I'm with you on that one Dr M, if I had a good machinist I would have got them to pull the outer race but unfortunately out in the sticks here in France we aren't blessed with any good machine shops and they would want to produce a 'devis' (quotation) first (that could take a month or two) and setup a rendezvous and it would end up costing $150-200 and 2 months delay . That's if it's not in July or August during which period just forget it. They don't 'do' Saturdays either Hence I do most maintenance on my vehicles otherwise I'd be either dead by then or skint waiting for the garages to perform.

 

the weather here in the Northeast caused a delay in getting me my purchased driveshaft so I fiddled with the center ball race that wouldn't come out. tried heat, pry bar, puller, couldn't get it and was afraid I would mar the cradle too much. I finally, carefully took my dremel and cut two slits opposite each other in the race. It was enough to relieve the pressure and the race came out. Had all the parts, so I rebuilt it and put it back in this morning. Smoooth!!! ride. Guess I'll send the ordered rebuilt shaft back.

Things I learned from doing this for the first time. Getting a loaner u joint tool from Advance made assembly very easy. You basically have to buy the puller for $180, then return it for full refund. Advance did not have the u-joint parts in stock put got them the next day. The NEAPCO parts identified in other posts worked great and are made in the USA. My propshaft looked original so the following parts worked.

U joints NEAPCO 1-0005
center ball NEAPCO 7-0081NG


It is possible to to fit the snap rings in even if a roller bearing falls over. If you really have to crank down to fit them and hear a light snap, you have snapped a rolling bearing (I bought an extra u - joint for just such an occasion). If installed correctly, you do not have to really crank down hard on the u joint tool to set them.

Do one cap at a time. that way you can slide the spider way over to fit the cap and make sure no roller bearings get dislodged. Press it in a little too far, put the snap ring in, then you can do the other side by sliding the spider over to the empty cap side to slip the cap on to prevent the bearings from dislodging. If you press the first cap in far enough, you will still capture the bearings and then won't fall over. Leave the grease fitting off so you don't damage them and it allows extra grease/pressure to escape while pressing in. Total time was about 4 hours, if I have to do again, I think I can get it done in less than 2. total cost was about $85 which included an extra u-joint.

The nuts/bolts on my 2002 D2 were 9/16" not 14 mm as mentioned in other posts.

Next project is the upstream O2 sensors. PB blasted them while I was under the car.

 

PS- thanks for all the help everybody!, love this site. Good to be wrenching on a Rover again. My daughter really liked driving the D2 while she was home on break from college.

 

Sorry for the threadjack lol. racing makes me happy

 

Now that I think about it though I sort of did contribute to the thread with the prybar comment