Well I finally got around to changing the fluid in the Transfer Case, since I had been hauling it around for about a month now. Drained what was in there. It had a reddish appearane from underneath watching it drain with the unlight behind it. I was afraid somene had accidentally filledit with ATF before I bought it. It looks really black in the drain pan.

I refilled it with Valvoline 75w140 from Advanced Auto along with one of their cheap hand pumps. Worked much better than trying to refill from the bottle. Stuff looked like honey flowing thru the clear fill tube. It was almost a gel consistency in appearance. Not much metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug either.

Next I went ahead and drained the motor oil and replaced the filter even though I had recently flushed th engine and refilled with Castrol GTX 5w30 and a LR filter from AB. I had picked up te GTX Extended (over 75K) 10W40. I used the Mobil One Filter and also added a quart of the Lucas Oil stabilizer this time around. I had ever used the Lucas stuff before but liked the little demo box with the handcrank they have by the register.

My Disco had been making a few taps at start-up like a dry start and would occasionally make a little noise at idle. After doing the newest oil change using the Lucas stuff, it sounds totally diffferent. No tapping at start-up, no noises, sounds lots better all around. Feels smoother accelerating. I am impressed.

 

Your tapping at start up and while hot was the 5w-30, that is to thin for these engines.
Flat tappet engines are hard on motor oil.

If you need a oil additive then you need a different oil.
Almost all of those oil stabilizers and stop leaks are nothing more than a viscosity enhancer, meaning it thickens the oil.

 

I see, I had an old 283 that ran best on 20w50

 

My truck seems to run best on straight HD-30...you kinda have to play around and see what works best for you.

 

I just changed my TC oil too. The fill plug is very hard to get to. I tried alot of different universals and adapters, There was nothing that seemed to work good with the parking drum brake so close. I was able to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to get is loose. I think I will make my own adapter at work, it will have a 1/2" square on one end and a 3/4" hex on the other end so I can use a ratcheting wrench.

Willie ,00 D2

 

Once you make one send me a PM and lets talk.

 

I used a half inch drive rachet (craftsman). I found that if I drop it down from above between the housing and the black bundle there and very carefully kept it seated squarely I could ease it out a few clicks at a time.

I had sprayed PB on it for a couple of days, laid on my back undeer it with a good light on it and eased it out. The drain plug was a real bitch to break torque on but iI used a long piece of black pipe over the rachet handle and pulled slowly til it finally gave.

 

I also impressed with your work! I think I can manage to change my TC like what you have done.

 

Yeah, I'm also facing that problem with every single bolt or nut I have to remove: always stuck. I'm using a lot of PB, leverage and also a torch whenever possible. I wanted to change my TC oil today, but there's no way that plug will turn and I'm again facing a "soaking pause". Since there's a connector and wires just above the filling plug I'm staying away from heat. I was not expecting problems with the drain plug since it's kept oily, but your report tells me that there ain't gonna be no easy one!

 

I used a breaker bar like this one at sears to break the filler plug loose.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...No=2&blockType=

Willie