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Your mechanic is just throwing parts at it, not actually diagnosing anything. Is he exclusively LR? In my experience 02 sensors rarely fail in pairs, and when you change both you lose the opportunity to compare known good to suspected bad. You need to invest in a $5 elm327 and $10 android phone and the torque app, chart all the oxygen sensors. Chart cold startup as well as running hot.
All that said, I have had a bad ECM where the oxygen sensor driver went out, no other issue. If you want to swap ECM to test, buy a set of ECM, PCM, and instrument cluster on ebay. Change them all and if they don't solve your problem you can resell them.
Your mechanic is just throwing parts at it, not actually diagnosing anything. Is he exclusively LR? In my experience 02 sensors rarely fail in pairs, and when you change both you lose the opportunity to compare known good to suspected bad. You need to invest in a $5 elm327 and $10 android phone and the torque app, chart all the oxygen sensors. Chart cold startup as well as running hot.
All that said, I have had a bad ECM where the oxygen sensor driver went out, no other issue. If you want to swap ECM to test, buy a set of ECM, PCM, and instrument cluster on ebay. Change them all and if they don't solve your problem you can resell them.
No, my mechanic is not exclusively LR. Unfortunately, I don't have an LR-specific mechanic within a reasonable distance (or, even anywhere in Wisconsin? Not sure on that). The one LR shop I knew of before I got my P38 a few years ago had closed down, and the guy who ran it now works at the dealership 30 minutes from me. There's no way I'm paying stealership money to solve this problem.
We're going to take a physical look at the ECU and all associated wires and fuses tomorrow and inspect for corrosion, proper grounding, etc. The sunroof drains were clogged earlier this year, so I'm thinking it's possible that water ended up where it wasn't supposed to be and perhaps corroded/fried some things behind the glovebox.
Some questions: Is it possible to bench test these ECUs/BCUs for proper function? If I need to order a new ECU + BCU, is it necessary to order the cluster, too? I see a couple ECU + BCU combos on eBay right now, some with clusters and some without. I guess I'm hoping to keep the stock cluster with an accurate odometer reading, but if swapping the cluster is part of getting this thing running right, I'll suck it up. Thanks!
The ECU, BCU, IC are all synchronized via code, if you swap only ECU/BCU the cluster odo will flash indicating a mismatch and to make it stop flashing you will need to have someone with a LR Testbook or other LR specific programmer resync them. For the cost difference it is cheaper to buy the trio. Look for a trio with similar mileage to yours, so it does not change your mileage much up or down. You can swap the ECU/BCU just to test the ECU and as long as you do not move the Disco during the test your odo will remain synced with your original ECU/BCU, but if you move it one foot the IC will detect it and you will lose your sync.
I chased a similar issue with my D2 a while back. I'm am also guilty of throwing parts at it. My hope is that your issue is not the same as mine but might be worth removing the valve cover before your replace the pcm. Mine was a 2 4 6 8 misfire as well and it turned out to be a a broken rocker shaft. Many said "I have never seen that before" Passenger side snapped Rocker Shaft
I chased a similar issue with my D2 a while back. I'm am also guilty of throwing parts at it. My hope is that your issue is not the same as mine but might be worth removing the valve cover before your replace the pcm. Mine was a 2 4 6 8 misfire as well and it turned out to be a a broken rocker shaft. Many said "I have never seen that before" Passenger side snapped Rocker Shaft
I also hope it's not that!
What were your symptoms, aside from misfires? Any noticeable noises from under the valve cover on that side?
What were your symptoms, aside from misfires? Any noticeable noises from under the valve cover on that side?
What!? Sure you do, a pair of rocker shafts is $20, and a few minutes to swap each side.
That's not catostrophic failure.
Other that a plug, wire or coil, it doesn't get much cheaper or simpler to fix.
And if you have low compression...that's a top and/or bottom end rebuild.
What!? Sure you do, a pair of rocker shafts is $20, and a few minutes to swap each side.
That's not catostrophic failure.
Other that a plug, wire or coil, it doesn't get much cheaper or simpler to fix.
And if you have low compression...that's a top and/or bottom end rebuild.
Yeah, I suppose it's alright from that perspective. I was more thinking about all the hours already sunk into chasing the more "common" misfire issues around. But, those hours have come and gone already, so might as well take the valve cover off before I start fiddling with the PCM.
Yeah, I suppose it's alright from that perspective. I was more thinking about all the hours already sunk into chasing the more "common" misfire issues around. But, those hours have come and gone already, so might as well take the valve cover off before I start fiddling with the PCM.
I'm not saying that's what it is either, only that it would be ok if it was
03-03-2020, 06:57 PM
