Cheap fix for subwoofer
went to walmart but they do not sell them in 6 1/2 inch subs but the salesman in best buy told me to go to pep boys and they had it. it was the whole sub box for 19.99 what a deal took it home removed speakers from sub box and installed in my 1999 disco 2 and it sounds great. Awsome fix cheap and good Thanks Jim
Last edited by jrover99; Jun 7, 2010 at 03:37 PM.
I epoxied in a couple of those, but wasn't quite happy enough with it. I found a custom LR box with the Logo made into the leather on CL for $20. I threw in some 10's and added an amp. I just put a couple of tears in it last week hauling wood =(. Still hits hard, though.
So the way I understand this is, that its a plug and play, I saw in the links that the factory amp is in the rear door, was it relcated there or has it always been there? Is our system powered enough to push this amp and is ours 4ohms? Mine is sounding distorted and a cheap good fix would be welcome.
I relocated the amp into the door. It used to be mounted to the magnets on the old speakers. I mounted it to the cross brace inside the door.
They still sound great, but I think the amp may have worked itself loose. Need to get it back open and check, as something is rattling around in there now.
The name brand is different, but the system is the same at Walmart...I took it apart and replaced my wasted subs...the new ones sound great and I wired in one of the tweeters. I paid $30...comes out to $10 per speaker.
So I bought the same $20 boombox and removed the speakers to replace the subs in my 98 D1 LSE. The fit is perfect as noted by others...but please help clarify how to wire the new subs. My 98 D1 has under the driverseat amp, so at the rear door are there just 2 subs and wires (no amp).
The original subs have 4 wires each - red/red-blk, blk/blk-wht. I understand they are dual voice coil subs. The new subs are single coil, having just +/1 terminals.
How did you wire up the new subs from the $20 Wal-mart box?
The original subs have 4 wires each - red/red-blk, blk/blk-wht. I understand they are dual voice coil subs. The new subs are single coil, having just +/1 terminals.
How did you wire up the new subs from the $20 Wal-mart box?
Well, I took a guess, and believe I've got the right connections now...here are the details.
The original factory subs were dual voice coil speakers. Each coil measures ~2ohm. I figure the factory amp probably is providing 4ohm drive, so the 2 coils are likely to be connected in series inside the amp. I can't tell for sure of this, there are 8 wires (4 per sub) going to the rear door connector. Per sub, the wire colors are Red/Red-Blk, Blk/Blk-Wht.
The cheap Wal-mart box's subs are single-coil, measured ~4ohm with +/- terminals. From one set of the wires, I connected the Red wire to +, and the Blk-Wht wire to -. I taped up the spare wires as no-connect. I did exactly the same for the other sub.
Both new subs sound good, hopefully this will last a while.
The original factory subs were dual voice coil speakers. Each coil measures ~2ohm. I figure the factory amp probably is providing 4ohm drive, so the 2 coils are likely to be connected in series inside the amp. I can't tell for sure of this, there are 8 wires (4 per sub) going to the rear door connector. Per sub, the wire colors are Red/Red-Blk, Blk/Blk-Wht.
The cheap Wal-mart box's subs are single-coil, measured ~4ohm with +/- terminals. From one set of the wires, I connected the Red wire to +, and the Blk-Wht wire to -. I taped up the spare wires as no-connect. I did exactly the same for the other sub.
Both new subs sound good, hopefully this will last a while.
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