This is a great forum from all of the "How Tos" and "MUST READS" stickied. I have a 1999 Wrangler SE that a local guy is interested in exchanging for his 2000 Land Rover Disco II. We are meeting on Wednesday to look over each others rig. His has 116K miles and I know nothing of the history as of yet. My Wrangler has 240K miles on the body and suspension and 70K miles on a re-built motor. The Jeep runs strong and has electrical gremlins typical of Wranglers, but it is a good vehicle. Too rough around the edges for my taste and I don't take it off road as I don't have the time.

Very hesitant to wade into the world of Land Rovers, but at the same time the Jeep now only gets about 3000 miles/year as a second vehicle/bad weather rig. The Rover would probably get about the same, maybe a little more, however, if it ends up being the preferred vehicle for trips.

When I inspect the vehicle on Wednesday, I already know to look for the following:

• Has the driveshaft been re-built using greasable u-joints? (All I have to do is look for the two zerks in the valleys of the cardan joints, correct?)
• Look for moisture on the oil cap.
• Look for creamy/choco milk on the dip stick
• Look for coolant leaks
• Look for oil leaks along bottom of cylinder head (would this be more or less apparent)?
• Smell for coolant leaks
• Is the engine mis-firing on a test drive (how would this feel?)
• Does the engine pull strong in passing maneuvers
• Coolant/crud coming out of the exhaust pipe?
• Sagging suspension due to SLS going bad
• 3 Amigos dash lights
• Pull the accelerator bowden cable and watch for interruptions in the return hose that empties into the coolant tank at the neck (where is the bowden cable)

Anyways, just wanted to introduce myself. Anyone think I should turn back now and run for the hills? I am somewhat mechanically inclined, a shadetree mechanic of sorts, but re-building the driveshaft is something that will likely push the limits of my abilities, to put it in perspective.

 

If the fans come on after a bit of driving, if the temp gauge moves past the middle, or if the upper radiator hose is near impossible to squeeze. All signs of head gasket issues. Check for rust everywhere.

 

Thanks. Its averaging 85 degrees during the day here in Northern VA right now. I would anticipate the fan would come on after 10 minutes of driving regardless (or no?), but the temp gauge should stay in the middle. Is that a good guess given the ambient temperatures? Or should the fan stay off?

 

My fan comes on when I start the truck, but pretty regardless of the weather it turns off after a few minutes, unless I have the AC on for a while. These are not guarantees that there are issues, just hints...

 

Thanks for the reply. I will keep that in mind. I am hoping for the rebuilt front driveshaft and coilover springs instead of the bags, but we shall see.

 

Ask him why he wants to trade, there has to be a reason why he's trading a lower miles car for a higher miles one.
Worst case you are into it for zero money and you can sell it for a few grand and buy something else.
I'm sure you have read that you must use premium gas.

 

Where I live a 1999 Wrangler is worth way more money than any discovery, if it's got the 4.0L inline six. I'm not saying it's better.... just more cash you could sell it for. Perhaps you should just sell it.

 

Is it because Heeps are so rare?

 

No, It's because Heep drivers are more brainwashed than we are, if you can believe it.... well that AND there aren't many soccer moms buying wranglers that have to ditch them when the warranty is gone.

If that 99 had more like 100k miles on it, they would probably try to get like $9000 here. It's silly.

 

I6 engine? Keep the JK man.

I traded my 95 YK for my 99 Disco II. But it was a 4 banger.