Clik, Clik, Clik...
Ok, so I've rebuilt the shafts and replaced the centering ball, after inspecting the removed caps they looked serviceable and they had lube in them, the only one that looked a bit dry was the cardon but there was still grease in them. Overall the rebuild was a good call but did not solve my problem as the clicking continues. I uploaded a video file to YouTube with the hopes that a few smarter guys than me can take a look/listen and offer any suggestions. One thing to note for all that use Neapco, make sure you inspect the cap sizes on the u-joints before walking away from your store of choice, I had two joints with the wrong size caps on three legs with the grease holed cap being the only one that was sized correctly. In addition to that the center ball's outer race was gouged and allowed for some movement but when installed started binding up, I only realized the problem when checking for free movement of the joint after assembly...yeh...so I had to take the whole thing apart de-grease and inspect it only to have to return the center ball and the two defective u-joints to Auto Zone for exchange, parts came in a day later...character builder.
MAQ00330.MP4 02 Disco II Under Body Clicking Sound = YouTube...it seems to be coming from the transfer case but would like second thoughts before I go ripping parts... so, any feed back would be appreciated.
MAQ00330.MP4 02 Disco II Under Body Clicking Sound = YouTube...it seems to be coming from the transfer case but would like second thoughts before I go ripping parts... so, any feed back would be appreciated.
Ok, so I've rebuilt the shafts and replaced the centering ball, after inspecting the removed caps they looked serviceable and they had lube in them, the only one that looked a bit dry was the cardon but there was still grease in them. Overall the rebuild was a good call but did not solve my problem as the clicking continues. I uploaded a video file to YouTube with the hopes that a few smarter guys than me can take a look/listen and offer any suggestions. One thing to note for all that use Neapco, make sure you inspect the cap sizes on the u-joints before walking away from your store of choice, I had two joints with the wrong size caps on three legs with the grease holed cap being the only one that was sized correctly. In addition to that the center ball's outer race was gouged and allowed for some movement but when installed started binding up, I only realized the problem when checking for free movement of the joint after assembly...yeh...so I had to take the whole thing apart de-grease and inspect it only to have to return the center ball and the two defective u-joints to Auto Zone for exchange, parts came in a day later...character builder.
MAQ00330.MP4 02 Disco II Under Body Clicking Sound = YouTube...it seems to be coming from the transfer case but would like second thoughts before I go ripping parts... so, any feed back would be appreciated.
MAQ00330.MP4 02 Disco II Under Body Clicking Sound = YouTube...it seems to be coming from the transfer case but would like second thoughts before I go ripping parts... so, any feed back would be appreciated.
mwindth, if you listen/look at the 1:14 to 1:18 mark it is a little more distinct but still hard to nail down from the video, I'm thinking about using a pit to try and isolate the location (actually considered riding the bottom on my creeper with wifey driving but decided against it...didn't want to add any additional fluids to my drive way other than disco oil). Yes it only happens when moving forward and with both hi and lo engaged. I changed the the transfer case oil 2 weeks ago when I started troubleshooting the noise, I wanted to eliminate that as a possibility so swapped the 75/90 for 75/140 and added White Shepard as I was also addressing a small leak. If I can't get access to a pit I may disconnect drive shafts front then back locking the tcase to see if either has an effect on the clicking.
I watched the video as well, but couldn't tell anything. The pit idea would work, if it were long enough for you to follow the vehicle as it moves forward. If you have enough heavy duty jack stands, you might put it securely on the stands getting all four wheels off the ground, have someone put it in gear, and let it idle in gear, so the drive train is moving. The only downside of this, is the drive train won't really be under the load of pulling the vehicle, but it's worth a try.
****SAFETY NOTE**** This is extremely dangerous, especially if you are under the vehicle and it falls!! Please take as many safety precautions as possible, I'm thinking minimum of six jack stands, making sure the vehicle is SOLIDLY on the stands before proceeding.
Unless your transfer case as been modified or replaced, you will not be able to remove a drive shaft, and lock it to test, as only 1999-some of 2001, and 2004 had the lock-able cases.
****SAFETY NOTE**** This is extremely dangerous, especially if you are under the vehicle and it falls!! Please take as many safety precautions as possible, I'm thinking minimum of six jack stands, making sure the vehicle is SOLIDLY on the stands before proceeding.
Unless your transfer case as been modified or replaced, you will not be able to remove a drive shaft, and lock it to test, as only 1999-some of 2001, and 2004 had the lock-able cases.
Thanks for the tip as I was not sure and intended to check when I got under the vehicle again...I guess the pit option is the only option. I already tried jackstands and could not duplicate the problem...no load is more than likely why so you're right.



