When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I recently got a Rover. Found one in good shape at a good price that needed a new engine. Found one, had our mechanics at work swap it in, as well as a new thermostat, and got it back. The following codes came up shortly after:
P0444 - Purge valve open circuit
P0154 - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1 Malfunction
P0155 - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1 Malfunction
P0171 - O2 Bank 1 System Too Lean
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heat Circuit Malfunction (Open Circuit)
P1171 - O2 Sensor Banks too lean
I did some googling to see if I could figure out what was going on, to no avail. Then I noticed the exhaust smelled rich, and popped the hood to see if I could see anything blatantly wrong, when I saw this on the SAI piping
I can't tell if it's corrosion or literally a hole in the pipe, but the other side is a flat pipe with no problems. I don't know what could cause this, but I'm pretty sure it's causing my problem. Should I be looking for more, or is this likely it?
Last edited by Kitaf; Feb 24, 2016 at 09:30 AM.
Reason: Code descriptions
at cold start-up when the SAI pump turns on, you can blow smoke on that area and see if it is sucked-in. You will hear the pump running off in the back corner on the passenger side. If the smoke isn't drawn in, start looking elsewhere. I didn't check your codes but if any of that is related to secondary air you can start with this to confirm or rule-out your suspicions. If you have a problem with that piece, there are a few guys on here that will have a replacement part.
I really cant tell if the hose is damaged or there is just some residue from something on the SAI piping.
Is your purge valve connected. Are you O2's connected and are they switching with the vehicle running.
Open circuit is either a wire is cut or disconnected at the component, hence my line of questioning.
purge valve stuck can cause lean codes. O2's can as well. But my money is on stuff isnt plugged in or harness's got cut during you engine swap.
Thanks to everyone for the good responses. On second look, it does look like melted plastic on the side of the piping, which makes a lot of sense. I'm going to be checking out the electrical connections later today. The O2s are easy to trace. Any other suggestions of places in particular I should look?
Again, thanks for the responses. This community rocks.
Just a couple of quick observations. First, regarding the smooth pipe on one side of the engine that the OP mentioned early on. From what I have seen, the smooth pipe is the newer version, replacing the original piping pictured by the OP. It is substantially stronger. Also, keep in mind there's only one pipe, it fits both sides. There isn't a left or a right. WAP50050 is the Land Rover part #.
I swapped out all the O2 sensors, and am still getting the following codes:
P0444
p0154
P0155
P0135
So I'm leaning towards electrical; I noticed that the positive connector on the battery is a little loose, even on its tightest setting. It connects, but can be shimmied off the battery without loosening the bolt. Is it possible that this could cause it? I also noticed corrosion on top of the battery. Should I replace the battery? Install a new connector? Both?
I swapped out all the O2 sensors, and am still getting the following codes:
P0444
p0154
P0155
P0135
So I'm leaning towards electrical; I noticed that the positive connector on the battery is a little loose, even on its tightest setting. It connects, but can be shimmied off the battery without loosening the bolt. Is it possible that this could cause it? I also noticed corrosion on top of the battery. Should I replace the battery? Install a new connector? Both?
I would get a new connector or one of those lead sleeves that goes over your posts to make sure you have a tight fitting but the old man in me says that if the battery has corrosion on it, it means that you have a short and battery drain somewhere. I wouldn't replace the battery until it just won't charge or your charger says that it has an internal error.
I'm sorry I didn't see above but have you used electronics cleaner to clean the connectors and put dielectric grease in them? If not you might try that and also trace the wires to make sure they haven't come in contact with something that melted them.
I did have phantom codes like yours once and had to replace the wiring harness (well I could have figured it out but I had a spare harness) and that fixed it up. I hadn't been super careful with the harness during a previous repair.
Also, I have gotten 2 of 4 new O2 sensors, brand new, that didn't work.