99 disco II lots of miles on body and drive-train ; about 200k.
100 k on motor.
I was driving HW speeds on Tuesday and I felt a skip for about 2/3 seconds and then then it ran fine. Thought maybe I bought some bad gas since the pump was acting funny and I finally gave up trying to fill it and just put in half tank.
I came back from my destination hours later without any problems. Did not drive the car on wed. Today I drove it again and got a mile from the house and felt a nice clunk ( going 45) and lost power ( limp mode) . Towed it back to the house and crawled around it for a while and could not find anything out of the ordinary. It starts fine but now CEL is on. No motor hesitation at all. Will not drive in any gear but shifts fine into any gear and H/L. Pulled codes p0734 ( gear 4 incorrect ratio) and code p0722 (output speed sensor circuit no signal). re-set the codes and it will run through the gears fine and still won't move. rev it up and the cel comes back on with the blinking M & S lights joining the light parade. Seems to rev-down when shifting into R or D but only the first time though. I've replaced the out-put flange, it has the multi-nipple shaft upgrade and I have kept up and have changed all the fluids in the tranny and gear-box regularly if not obsessively. All of which I checked on Tuesday and topped off as I have few annoying leaks from both the tranny and gear-box. I did however over -fill the anti-freeze as I found residue all over the undercarriage when I checked it upon arriving at my destination after the first little skip on Tuesday. I had someone brake and put into reverse while i looked at the shafts & None of them are moving in any gear so ??????? did my gear box or tranny just **** the bed??? seems odd as it has run great with no gearbox grind or whine or w/out having any tranny issues whatsoever until today. stumped in Denver.....any advise /input would be appreciated!

 

A bad battery has been known to play havok with tranny,have you checked voltage/battery/alternator?

 

Hmm, my father has had the a near same problem with his rover. In the transfercase there is a bronze claw that holds the truck in gear, his broke and it shifted into neutral, having the same symptoms as yours. If you could spare the oil that's in the tcase, drain it and pull the cover off and inspect that bronze piece for breakage, his broke randomly and had to be towed, he had a CEL light on while it happened and never checked the codes. Id have to find a picture of the part for you.

 

Number 7, its called a selector fork.

 

I can you tell as fact that the "parking prawl" is either NG or was worn significantly. I first noticed it this summer when i had the rover on a slight incline on my drive and she started rolling backwards by itself ( jumped out in a hurry and did not to set PB) . I heard the click , click , click as it rolled. Did some research to find it was a fairly common problem in the rover due to the weight of the vehicle. From then on I have cranked the PB to keep it stopped on any surface when I park. Are these two parts the same ? Selector fork and parking Prawl ? Thanks and that would make perfect sense based on the facts at hand........yes I checked the battery and alternator ; Newer battery and correct voltage.

 

above 13 volts?

 

will double check and post later today or tom........luckily I have another vehicle to drive
and am swamped at work .

 

This is almost the exact same thing that happened to me; engine wise, not nec the exact scenario.

I posted this in another thread in hopes I might get some attention. Not sure how that works here, so please forgive me if I'm making an idiotic mistake. I really have been reading a ton here and going crazy. Here's the back story:

I have a Disco II, 145K, 2002.

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I've been reading on this problem and others I am having for several days. Wish I would have joined sooner so I could PM folks like Disco Mike (wow man, you're a wealth of information here!!! Thanks!!!).

I have the flashing SM. Broke down out of state right now, but have a friend with a lift letting me use his shop. Only able to move in R. NO forward at all, though after chancing out the tranny filter/fluid, which was dark brown and smelled mildly brown, I got VERY minor forward movement -- for a second. Then, bang back into limp with no limp... just R.

Crazy.

I'm getting this code and found the sensor, but nobody carries it to replace it here. Gonna call a dealer (about 30 min away) to see if they have one.

This all started a week ago in VA. Driving along, towing some steel on a trailer, and the water pump goes. Belt flies off. I replace both in hotel parking lot. Hear hard shift and suddenly can't go forward. Just R.

Buddy on phone tells me to disconnect Bat, turn on key, and then in 10 min reconnect. I do. It SLLLLOOOOWWWWLLLLY starts to go forward in D, then, runs normally again and all seems fine. A week later, I'm running around Philly on the 4th of July, and I feel it not, well, feel right. Stop at a light and nothing. It's all gone again. SM blinking, and R only again.

I've read for two days solid. And I mean, for hours and hours on every forum link I can find. Really could use some solid advice. I'm at a total loss and don't have enough funds in bank to get a new tranny. Hopping it's electrical and there's some way I can limp home a few states awat with an empty trailer and sit her back in the garage. Bad situation to be in. Limited funds, but a bit of time and some tools on my hands.

Thanks in advance. You guys at this forum all rock; I'm so glad I've found it.

Best,

James
Boots on the Ground | Waging Peace one Person at a Time

 

Hey I just saw your post.....I went around and around, as you can see from my post, trying to figure this out. I decided to pull the inspection plate off of the transfer case and found the main gear sheared. Upon pulling the t-case I found that the tranny side output shaft bearing had imploded frying my t-case. I found one here on the forum and replaced. To my utter dismay I had the same exact problem and the Rover went NO-where!!! I pulled the t-case again and this time replaced the tranny and t-case. All in all a PITA and many, many hours re-building but now it runs perfect again. Probably not what you want to hear but I would start by inspecting the fluid in the t-case. If the tranny fluid is also not filled right with the proper procedure you will also go nowhere!

 

also i f you have not come across this thread...most case it seems like a low voltage problem like a failing alternator........towing and summer = failing electronics.

A blinking M & S can be other things as well, there are a number of codes that trigger limp home modes:

from the RAVE:

If a fault is detected, the EAT ECU immediately stores a fault code and the values of three operating parameters
associated with the fault. Depending on the fault, there are four possible effects:


l
The fault has little effect on gearbox operation or vehicle emissions. The driver will probably not notice any

change and the warning lamps remain extinguished.
l


The fault has little effect on gearbox operation but may effect vehicle emissions. On NAS vehicles, if the fault is

detected on a second consecutive drive cycle, the MIL illuminates.
l


All gears are available but kickdown does not function. The sport and manual warning lamps flash. The MIL

remains extinguished.
l


Limp home mode is selected and vehicle performance is greatly reduced. The sport and manual warning lamps
flash. In all markets, if the fault is detected on a second consecutive drive cycle, the MIL illuminates.


Of course, being an over-computerized rolling tea kettle, good alternator and up to snuff battery can cure a lot of gremlins. Code list for auto trans attached, notice last column, which shows when M&S lights will be triggered by the tranny, but there could be others...


Time for tranny fluid and filter change?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf d2 tranny codes.pdf (1.46 MB, 49 views)
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Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 10-25-2011 at 11:05 AM.