OK, this might be a DUH type dumb question, but I'm throwing it out there.

I have replaced the radiator, the T stat, both coolant temp sensors, and the fan clutch. I am generally really happy with the temps the engine runs.

However, it's been pretty hot here lately and when I've got the kids with me I run both the AC units and they work exceptional... Until I have to idle. This is the only time the temp gets to 201 or 203 (if I have to idle for a minute or 2 at a light). Otherwise I'm at 194 in town driving and 190 while on the road.

So that's the background. Anyway, I determined my condenser fan wasn't coming on through the highly technical "spin the fan with a screwdriver through the grill" method. Spins perfect.

Next step, verify it actually works. I finally got around to pulling the grill and testing. Sure enough, it works. I read through some threads and started thinking the fan relay.

Getting to the point, the fuse was blown. According to the lid on the lid of the box, it should be a 40A. It had a 30A. I quickly threw in a 25A and it blew immediately. Thus my dumb question: does the circuit draw that much current that it will nuke a smaller fuse? Or do I get to do the tracking down of a short? I'm off to get a correct size fuse and see if that does it. If not, then I have my answer, but thought I'd ask the collective in the mean time...

 

Well, answered my own question: put a 40A fuse in and drive for a bit in 83F ambient with both AC units blasting it didn't get over 195 idling in the sun for a couple minutes. This is a black truck too. WOOHOO!!!!!

 

I could use the fuse amp rating just like how people are using the oil viscosity rating, but I won't go there lol.

The fan draws a decent amount of amps to get going, so yes it's rated for a 40amp fuse. However say if it was already spinning, and you slapped in a 30amp fuse it would probably run a bit before blowing as it wouldn't be loaded down as much.

Our D2's have a 40amp fuse, but I've seen plenty of other vehicles with 70amp to 100amp fuses for just the engine efan/ac fan.

 

Well this is kinda dumb: my temps are now running HIGHER with the condenser fan working. Huh? Zero changed including the ambient temp.

I was running consistent 190 on the freeway and now it is at 194. Grrrrrrr...:

 

Oh now it gets better. Went on a quick family outing to a park. Came back to the car, now the AC and radio won't come on at all.

My goodness the electricals in these things are CRAP!!!

 

Ac unit and radio should be on same fuse in the interior fuse box. Mine has popped before while installing a radio, no biggie. If it happens again there is an issue...obviously lol.

About your Temps, is the highway temp the only thing that changed? Or is it running warmer at idle as well?

 

Also, the condenser fan isn't very stout, its almost no help at cooling the engine radiator, even though it's programmed to come on as a last resort for high coolant Temps. It's primary function is to aid in condensing the refrigerant.

 

This thing is such a Rover. We come back to the car, turn on the AC and radio and drive home like nothing happened. What a POS these things are. I still love it, but it is a total joke of a vehicle at times.

Thanks for the info on the fan. It seems the temps are settling down to what they normally run, but I was hoping to get a little more help from the fan. Oh well.

 

If anyone like a stereo shop or Best Buy ever had their hands on it I'm sure they nicked, cut, stabbed their way thru the install. I got done fixing my friends OEM Nav unit (by replacing it), and he had taken it to Best Buy to have a HK Ipod adapter added to it. Thing never shut off properly, and it would kill the battery. When I went to remove it they trashed the dash, and did some truly **** poor wiring splices/connections. After I fixed all the nicks,, and **** poor broken dash tabs and missing screws he now has a perfectly working Kenwood, and zero battery issues.

LR wiring is decent, but it's delicate to say the least so if ya go ***** out and aren't careful it just takes one nicked wire to cause all sorts of hell later on down the road. I make a point to never buy a LR that has any aftermarket alarm or stereo/dvd crap. LR could be awesome, but I walk away every time.

 

I never buy ANY car with an alarm or the like installed. And I did the install of the stereo, so no one to blame but me if it's messed up. No splicing cutting or anything on OEM wiring as I used all the correct kits and any soldering was done before it even got to the vehicle.

No, I just think it is wonky.