Coolant bleeder valve pinhole
#1
Coolant bleeder valve pinhole
Hi all,
2002 Disco II with 153K miles. Coolant spray residue on top coolant hose from coolant bleed screw assembly to plastic thermo housing. Removed hose, inspected and replaced it. Added 3-4 qts coolant and bled system. started engine and drove at normal temp for 10 minutes. no overheating.
inspected bleed screw to find it wet. I tightened it, to notice just beneath the bleed screw cap was a pinhole with coolant seeping.
Can this be repaired? Should I replace the bleed screw plastic assembly? If so, where can I find besides the dealer? any advice welcome. I can smell coolant and no other signs of leaks except here and very little beneath the throttle housing.
Many thanks.
Jamie
2002 Disco II with 153K miles. Coolant spray residue on top coolant hose from coolant bleed screw assembly to plastic thermo housing. Removed hose, inspected and replaced it. Added 3-4 qts coolant and bled system. started engine and drove at normal temp for 10 minutes. no overheating.
inspected bleed screw to find it wet. I tightened it, to notice just beneath the bleed screw cap was a pinhole with coolant seeping.
Can this be repaired? Should I replace the bleed screw plastic assembly? If so, where can I find besides the dealer? any advice welcome. I can smell coolant and no other signs of leaks except here and very little beneath the throttle housing.
Many thanks.
Jamie
#2
It's likely that you have a small crack in the tee. Don't try to repair it. If it lets go, your engine will likely be toast. Besides, if it has cracked then the entire tee is probably not too strong anymore. I just replaced all the hoses in my truck as preventative maintenance and the tee broke apart in my hands. It wasn't leaking at all but it was not too far completely failing. All of the small diameter plastic cooling lines on my truck were also very brittle and easily snapped into pieces.
That tee comes as part of the hose. You can order one from an online supplier but you may not save enough after shipping to justify that route. There are aftermarket hose assemblies but reviews I have read say they are not as durable as the OEM ones. There are threads about people making their own out of ductile iron fittings or stainless pieces, but you need to fabricate a bleeder setup. I would suggest taking a close look at the other hoses in your truck to make sure they aren't in similar condition. The lower hose also has a fairly complex plastic section that is probably not in much better condition. I bought all of the cooling hoses online in a kit for about $300. You could spend more than that just getting towed back home.
That tee comes as part of the hose. You can order one from an online supplier but you may not save enough after shipping to justify that route. There are aftermarket hose assemblies but reviews I have read say they are not as durable as the OEM ones. There are threads about people making their own out of ductile iron fittings or stainless pieces, but you need to fabricate a bleeder setup. I would suggest taking a close look at the other hoses in your truck to make sure they aren't in similar condition. The lower hose also has a fairly complex plastic section that is probably not in much better condition. I bought all of the cooling hoses online in a kit for about $300. You could spend more than that just getting towed back home.
#3
many thanks. I have been reading posts about replacements and alternatives. I am looking for just the T-connector now at both AB and Rock Auto, but I cannot locate this connecter in any of my searches. Does the part have another name? I read people buying OEM for $69 and something called URO I think for $40.
I searched under everything I could think of and all that comes up are the hoses and the thermostat.
I searched under everything I could think of and all that comes up are the hoses and the thermostat.
#4
Top radiator hose. AB: Radiator Hose (Genuine Part # PCH000460): Land Rover Discovery II Radiator Top Hose
Rockauto: RockAuto Parts Catalog[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=p3rf4somaaieoo5v5rl2pa1q67
Amazon: . AB will price match if you prefer them. I get parts overnight from AB via ground shipping but since you are in Texas it's probably no quicker than any other source.
Rockauto: RockAuto Parts Catalog[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=p3rf4somaaieoo5v5rl2pa1q67
Amazon: . AB will price match if you prefer them. I get parts overnight from AB via ground shipping but since you are in Texas it's probably no quicker than any other source.
#5
You cannot buy just the Tee, you need to buy the whole upper house assembly. we have all dealt with this issue at some point , as said above some have built their own. I replaced with new assembly so much easier. plus the way I look at it is if the tee is brittle enough to crack the hoses are more than likely old too. might as well replace the cost of doing this is a hell of a lot cheaper than a new engine.
#6
#7
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post