Come on guys! There has to be a standard way of bleeding this cooling system, way too many different ways of doing it!

 

Just wait until the HG goes and it'll bleed itself, no worries!

 

The traditional cold method is the best imo. It works, I've done it a number of times. Most of all its extremely easy to do, and your doing with the engine cold so you aren't have to mess with hot coolant or an open expansion tank. It's the safest and easiest way to do it.

It might take 2-3 bleeds to get all the air out, maybe that annoys some people but to each his own.

 

This pix shows a home brew bleeder upgrade. Note the line of bubbles in the clear purge tube. IMHO many quit bleeding at the first bubble or two, there are plenty more where those came from, they won't all zip out in one squirt.

 

It is an easy thing to do.. But imho the cold route is the best. and yes it may take more than once, and yes the first bubbles are not the last bubbles. The other way is to have a vacum pull on the system My mechanics shop has one it is amazing, yet does not eliminate the need for a final bleed.

 

The other problem is one of physical route, you can have a bubble trapped in the system at a high spot, the normal place for them to move to, yet the only way out is going low thru another opening when there is enough water flow to drag it along. So cold static bleed will get the bubbles nearby, buy maybe not deep ones in the heater core. Some have reversed lines to the core for a period to force reverse action.

And you certainly may need to bleed more than once. Messy, SWMBO should not be watching the garage floor at this point.

The big problem is when the noise keeps coming back. HG (exhaust gas) or air (another dang leaky hose clamp)?

 

The heater core is a high point in the system, but if it is properly flowing (usually after backflushing) the rate of flow through it on the highway (as I found out) will purge all of the air out. Once this is in the system, the next high point is at the tee at the radiator. I like the concept of the valve and tube setup, but the point where the valve is fitted to the coupler needs to be at the highest point on the tee in order to get all of the air. The multiple cold bleed method with the reservoir elevated gets the job done, although the coolant all over the alternator, belt and ground does seem less than slick.

 

what about this guy on youtube??? is he on point???

 

That's pretty much it, although in my quick viewing I didn't see him use any distilled water to flush out the tap water. Extra minerals in our cooling systems plugs them in a hurry.

 

I did this not to long ago do it cold just lift the expansion tank so it's the highest point in the system and fill it until a full colum of liquid is coming out of the bleed screw very easy and I only did it once