Coolant bypass filtration options
#1
Coolant bypass filtration options
Ive been reading alot about how the headgaskets on these motors just dont last, and alot has been attributed to the high contamination that these motors experience, which wear things down. and in the case of coolant, eat away at the gaskets. i dont know how familiar with this case people are, but in the diesel pickup work bypass coolant filtration systems are big... especially work trucks who need thier motors to go 750k+ miles without as much as a single hiccup.
i was wondering if anything like this exists for discos aftermarket, or if anyone here has ever succesfullly fabbed on up? id definatly be interested in hearing from you, id love to do this as a precautiary insurance measure to keep my new '00 disco goin for me!
heres one example from the big bore diesel pickup world thats popular:
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...S&Category=618
i was wondering if anything like this exists for discos aftermarket, or if anyone here has ever succesfullly fabbed on up? id definatly be interested in hearing from you, id love to do this as a precautiary insurance measure to keep my new '00 disco goin for me!
heres one example from the big bore diesel pickup world thats popular:
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...S&Category=618
#2
That sounds like a great idea. But this engine really sucks. If you get to 150k on a Land Rover engine. You are on borrowed time. DI or DII. The sleeves crack, the blocks crack. Dex-Cool may be a main factor. But better plan on a new engine every 150k. Sorry to be Debbie Downer but spend much time on these forums and that is the deal
#4
From my reading and research the the cracks start at the cylinder head bolt holes. Also change your coolant from Dex-Cool to any green/yellow alumium block safe coolant. Peak Global Lifetime is a popular upgrade. The Dex-Cool is very corrosive and may contribute to the headgasket replacements before 100k. If you change the coolant you must do a complete flush and get rid of all the Dex-Cool.
If you rig up a coolant filter system I would like to see your setup. Take some pictures. Are you sure that most water pumps can push coolant through a filter and still perform proper flow on the engine.
If you rig up a coolant filter system I would like to see your setup. Take some pictures. Are you sure that most water pumps can push coolant through a filter and still perform proper flow on the engine.
#5
Thats the greatest thing about the bypass filters, they "bypass" the main coolant flow. they usually tap into a hose or line and split it, one line going in normal path, one to a filter. the pull off line is narrow and only allows a small amount of coolant in, almsot a controlled leak sort of speak, through the filter, to another outgoing tap back into the flow. it takes a small sample of coolant from the flow, but all the time. it wont clean out a system in a single run like an oil filter does for the oil, but it gets all the heavier elements out that cause the damage, and the rate of new contaiminates, especailly the larger particles from old gasket material, rust particales, etc. doesnt keep up with the filtering rate. its basically a "safe point" at which solid materials can gather, rather then in or on passeges that it shouldnt where coolant flow is needed to keep hotspots and clogs from happening.
i emailed one of the companies yesterday asking for details they could give me, im sure it can be mounted anywhere rather simply, there is plenty of room in the rover bay for one, im just not sure how the hose's and tap points.
as for the meantime, i was planning on a flush, and new coolant and thermostat after. thanks for the advice, ill be reaserchin that.
i emailed one of the companies yesterday asking for details they could give me, im sure it can be mounted anywhere rather simply, there is plenty of room in the rover bay for one, im just not sure how the hose's and tap points.
as for the meantime, i was planning on a flush, and new coolant and thermostat after. thanks for the advice, ill be reaserchin that.
#6
anyone ever swap over coolant to AMSOIL brand? Or would that be just as corrosive as the DEX? I ask because its supposed to be compadible with DEX so I won't have to be as worried during the flush to convert it to conventional. I don't have easy means to flush it properly, I could catch the old stuff fine, but during the a flush you should really go through almost 5-6 water runs to actually get clean again... it might be **** but thats how id do it, but im not going to be one of those ******** that just opens up the drainplug and lets the water flow! collecting that much water is a biiig job too, plus xporting it all to sears or whereever to dispose would be out of the question without a second mode of xport besides my motorcycle!
#7
That sounds like a great idea. But this engine really sucks. If you get to 150k on a Land Rover engine. You are on borrowed time. DI or DII. The sleeves crack, the blocks crack. Dex-Cool may be a main factor. But better plan on a new engine every 150k. Sorry to be Debbie Downer but spend much time on these forums and that is the deal
#8
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aguison
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11-18-2012 05:15 PM