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Coolant Change/Radiator Swap

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  #21  
Old 04-25-2011, 06:39 AM
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Any other ideas in getting all the coolant? Reservoir is at the full mark, unable to poor anymore. I bleed all the hoses and bleed screw and held reservoir up and even tried to blow. Should I start the engine and let the heater run hot or what? Read previous messages for more info.
 
  #22  
Old 04-25-2011, 07:21 AM
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You could have air trapped behind the thermostat, in which case it is not going to open. Another possibility is that the weep holes in the thermostat are clogged with crap, in which case it is not going to function properly as well. Or you could have a faulty thermostat.
Remove the reservoir cap and then let the engine idle, see if any air gets expelled from the reservoir. Feel if the top rad hose gets hot - that would indicate that the thermostat is opening up. Don't let the engine over heat on you though. Also turn up the heat and feel if you are getting heat in the cabin.

New thermostat?
 
  #23  
Old 04-25-2011, 07:53 AM
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Bendu the tops hoses get hot and I can squeeze them slightly and hear and slightly feel coolant in the them. So does this mean it could be the thermostat still? I bought a brand new one when I replaced the radiator just to be on the safe but mostly for the peace of mind knowing I did.

I guess when I go home I will make sure the reservoir is full to the line and leave the reservoir cap off and run the engine with heat on and see if it pulls more coolant through. Should I have the reservoir suspended in the air a couple inches still?

Someone told me you have to fill and turn on and let it cycle through and then turn off and let the engine get cold, then start up and let it cycle through and pour in some more. But I am trying and Im running into a wall. It seems like this should be more simple than what it seems.
 
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:58 AM
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are you getting any heat inside the truck
 
  #25  
Old 04-25-2011, 08:11 AM
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I have done it at least 5 times (had 3 bad water pumps) and never had a problem.
Leave the reservoir clipped in when you run the engine. Fill the reservoir to the neck and try running it until hot with the cap off, then let it cool overnight with the cap off, see if it draws any coolant in.
Question: did you flush the heater core both ways with a hose to see if water flows freely?
Is the serp belt routed correctly? A simple rule is that the serp belt grooves must run on a grooved pulley and the smooth side must run on a smooth pulley - can't get it wrong if you follow that.
 
  #26  
Old 04-25-2011, 08:25 AM
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Yes, I am getting heat in the vehicle and I even tried the air conditioning and it works too.

I flushed water through the hoses with them off the radiator and engine. So how do I flush the heater core? Can you explain how to do this?

And are you saying I might have a bad water pump?

The belt looked fine when I checked but will need to be replaced soon as there is some cracking in the belt.
 
  #27  
Old 04-25-2011, 09:09 AM
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For flushing the heater core: there are 2 rubber hoses attached to pipes going through the firewall, these go to the heater core. Do not detach these hoses at the firewall end, this is looking for trouble. Detach these hoses at the end away from the firewall, one at the waterpump and the other at the block. You can then flush them and see if you have free flow. Note you will loose coolant if you pull them off, so either drain coolant or have enough spare.
I'm not saying you have a bad waterpump. Some people say it is possible to route the serp belt incorrectly and the waterpump then spins backwards - I have not tried this . Anyway with the pump spinning the wrong way you are not going to get sufficient coolant flow. Hence my comment about checking the serp belt routing.
How old is the waterpump and has it ever been replaced? It is not uncommon for the impellers to corrode away and leave you with a worthless pump.
 
  #28  
Old 04-25-2011, 09:13 AM
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Btw the point about checking flow through the heater core is that you could have a blockage there, not uncommon. Since you are getting heat in the cabin it shows you are getting flow, you are just not sure how much.
 
  #29  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:01 AM
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Can you get me a picture of the two rubber hoses where I need to disconnect? This would help a lot, I would hate to be pulling **** I dont need too.

I am 2nd owner of the Rover, I have no idea how old the water pump is.
 
  #30  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:18 AM
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The 2 hoses run along the passenger side valve cover straight back to the firewall, they are about 1" thick. You can't miss them. I'm trying to find a picture.
How many miles on your truck and how long have you had it?
 


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