1) He asked about the LS swap himself.
2) The crew that was developing the most recent kit has been selling them for a while now.

 

I’ve seen kits that keep all the factory goodies - TC, Cruise, Hill Descent, etc... for $2400.
LS motors look like I could get one less than the AB top hatted motor.
local shop said I could expect around $2k in labor and miscellaneous parts.

wouldn’t I be better off swapping to the LS and not having to worry about overheating, have more power and be able to use regular gas?

I reeeally like my truck and would hate to get rid of it. There just seems to be a ton of conflicting info on whether or not it’s worth doing the swap, and the cost associated with it.

what’s the justification for putting another LR engine in? It seems like a recipe for disaster and is just a ticking time bomb for HG issues or other over heating problems.

I’m all ears to suggestions or hearing contrary opinions. Bottom line, like I said, is that I really like my truck and would like to hang on to it as long as it’s feasible to do so. Just want to figure out if it’s time to part ways and say goodbye to ol’ Winston Or Frankenstein this old guy up and keep rolling.

 

i guess the best best bet is go right to the source of who’s building these kits and ask them. You get so many mixed answers

or you can take a chance and get another rover engine.
Or get the Atlantic British short or long block block for about 5-7 k

I had a 2004 disco with the Atlantic British short block that cost 10 k Canadian for a rover shop to install back in 2013. I’m assuming prices have gone up a bit

 

I mean, look at this thing. This is before the big a** roof rack went on.

 

There isn't a lot of conflicting info on the LS swap....any project that big is going to cost more than budgeted. Every single time. So the expectations of cheap junkyard motor and a few weeks of downtime and total cost of $5k just isn't realistic. Best bet financially and time wise would be to source a P38 4.6 block or a early d2 4.0 block, swap in 4.6 rods, new cam and reseal everything and get the ECU tuned. The 4.0 blocks rarely have issues and all the known issues are solvable for these motors. With a better tune that doesn't die at 3k rpms I think we'd see a much better driving experience.

 

What would a reasonable mileage be to put into an ‘04? Meaning, would it be worth it to put in a 180k mile motor? Or should I be looking for a unicorn of a engine to make it worth my while? I just wouldn’t want to throw good money after bad on another LR engine.
Also, does the 4.0 for without mods to the engine mounts, wiring loom, etc?

 

4.0 motor is physically the same. You are essentially rebuilding an early 4.0 block and putting 4.6 internals into it...nothing would change on the vehicle side of things. It is simply a physical 1 for 1 replacement. To maximize the new motor there is a company in England that can flash the ECU to free up some power and really take advantage of the new cam (assuming you would install a crower or other aftermarket option). Mileage on block isn't super concerning so long as the deck isn't warped and the heads you put on it are straight as well.

 

I've got two over 220k, 4.0 LR engines, still run like a top.

Nice looking truck. Worth keeping.

I recommend you do a decision analysis - I recommend the Kepner-Tregoe decision analysis method. It will help you determine what is important in making your decision.

Things to consider:

1. How much of the work are you going to do yourself?
2. How much experience do you have?
3. How long are you willing to have it down?

There are lots of other questions, but these are a start.

Short answers:

1. Stock 4.0 is cheapest and easiest, you won't notice the power difference. Get the lowest mileage you can afford and put HG and a new cooling system in it.
2. 4.6 guts in a 4.0 is a good option with a bit more power, but more work.
3. 4.6 is a crap shoot on block quality unless you get a completely redone one from AB or Turner. The Turner seems a top quality piece.
4. LS swap will cost about the same as the Turner, more power, cheaper replacements if the worst happens. Requires sacrifices (like a lift) depending on the kit. I can proa

Give Wes a call at Eurover and talk to him about options and cost.

 

It always seems that the colder it gets, the more coolant I lose from expansion tank. Hoses are more stiff, less flex, and spit out excess coolant.

 

Thanks Extinct. Funny enough, the truck is over at Eurover. Wes and the guys are the ones that figured out the problem. I’ll talk to them when I go pick up the truck today about the 4.0 option.
On the LS swap, do you know if my 2” TerraFirma suspension lift would be sufficient? I really hate to get the center of gravity too much higher on this thing. They’re already plenty tall.
Again, thanks you guys for your help on this. It’s been said a lot on the forum, but it’s true - this group makes the frustration of owning these trucks much more manageable. Thanks again