I had my bleeder screw do the same as yours and break in the T. I used a small chisel like a flat head screw driver to get a bite and back the broken bit out of the T.
If you have an autozone nearby, you can get 2 screws for about $4.
https://www.autozone.com/collision-b...rew/512891_0_0

 

lol! The extras are just really extras. It has no purpose there just a back up incase i will need one for quick fix on the road. Cheers

 

14 years Sir is a long time and never even touched that screw. Top your coolant in the morning to the seam and dont over fill where the system has no room for pressure and coolant to expand, before you drive.

 

Update:

Thanks everyone for the advice. I went with the copper tee modification. After taking the stock tee off, I was expecting to see some sort of fin or diverter, or SOMETHING in there that could deteriorate along with the plastic bleed screw (as if that isn't enough on it's own), but nada. So with that discovery, I did give some more thought to the brass screw option, but I really do think this bleed point is overkill. That being said, I'm not totally crazy about the look of it (Sorry Lisa, not a fan of Steam Punk haha). I'm wondering if a galvanized piece would be an option instead of the copper? Does anyone know if the antifreeze, temp, current, or anything else wouldn't play nicely with a galvanized steel fitting?

Edit: I just read that glycol doesn't play nice with the zinc used in the galvanizing process, so there goes that idea haha Maybe I can just paint the copper? haha

 

Just put the right hose on and be done with it. You can have this on at your door by the middle of next week.

 

Thanks, Man. The tee and hoses themselves aren't my issue (at least at the moment), it's that the plastic screw crumbled and failed. I'm all for "doing things right", but if there's a better solution out there, I'm all for trying it.

 

Check if the difference in the material can be welded together or not. Brass and copper ok bit different in temp but I have seen them do it. There is also a home depot part for that brass valve if you want on top.

 

OK. Here you go. Get a couple extra and you are good for who knows how many miles.

 

Having the bleed screw does actually help in bleeding the final tiny air pockets out of your system, usually worth 2 to 10 degree lower operating temps. And you might as well get a grey OEM 180 degree stat while you are at it.

 

I don't think I'm having any issues with the Tstat on there. IS the 180 different than the stock one? Again, the cooling system is not my expertise. I'm not up to speed on the intricacies with the Discos' system.