2004 Disco II, 106,000 miles

Have not seen this anywhere so posting here for your wisdom . . . .

Have a coolant leak from what seems to be an engine seam just below the exhaust manifold on the driver side of the engine.

Coolant bleeds out while running and slower while off. Coolant has leaked onto crank position sensor cuasing it to stop while running . . . have to wait about 20 minutes to restart after this happens.

No leaks from above this point (checked throttle body . . . no leaks there). Is this a seam from when they molded the engine?? Any ideas on how to fix this?? JB Weld??

 

It appears you have a cracked head.

 

Can you actually SEE the coolant weeping through the block? I have heard of porous blocks on some Rovers, but I've never seen one before. If that's what it's doing, good question, how do you fix it? Is that the head or the block? If it's the head that's leaking, that's not too bad. Or at least not as bad as a leaking engine block.

 

Right, that is the underside of the head? Or is it the block? Hard to tell from the pic.

 

Thanks all, yes can actually seeing it weeping coolant, drips on to exhaust by the O2 sensor so most of it evaporated instead of pooling on ground . . . .

discovered it as I was working on replacing the Crank Position Sensor. . .

Looking at the attached (web) picture, it appears to be the head gasket . . . . there is the Crank Position Sensor Mud Cover to help you get your bearing . . . you can see in the picture the part of the water jacket that is feeding the drip. . . .

*** So now the question . . . . just a head gasket replacement or do full engine rebuild while at it . . . . darn cylinder sleeves . . . ?????

 

That's a hard question to answer...
Whether you have the whole engine done, and how you have it done greatly depends on your financial situation and how long the truck can be down for.
If you can afford to have new liners and all the machining done to the block, I would say go for it. These engines are notoriously defective, especially the cylinder liners and/or blocks.

 

its the costly repairs that separate the fans from the die hards right . . . . lol

It is a second car . . . love the look of these, just wish the engine was better built (dreaming of it having a chevy short block lol) . . . read somewhere that the engines were essentially at tolerance limits when they left the plant new . . .

Leaning towards total rebuild . . . everything else should be ok . . . . right??

 

I can see exhaust manifold bolted to it, so definitely it's the head, ( even though picture not clear), Is coolant coming out of aluminum crack or other?
If engine doesn't have knocking sound , just replace one head, Will cost a fraction of total Rebuild,
If you have lots of extra cash , Then spend as you want and rebuild whole thing. You will spend as much as truck is worth, if you want a proper rebuild.

 

Might be worthwhile to just replace the intake manifold gasket first.

Liquid can be coming from way up and just falls off where you see it.
Does not mean the leak is coming from where your eyes finally find it.

Any coolant from the head will be right smack at the back or front of the head where the coolant jackets are located.

Only real conclusion is to clean the engine.
Then when you come home, you need to let it cool down for 10 minutes then crawl under there and watch for the leak to happen.

 

good point, fairly sure it is from head gasket, it is going from the back near jacket . .

Bom, had not thought of just replacing one head gasket . . . might be worth it

I don't have a knocking sound, but more of a metallic tapping once the engine is hot (20 min or so) . . . figured it was the cylinder sleeve.