Coolant Leak - confirm my fears....
#11
The head bolts are 5/8". Use a short 5/8" impact socket, and when needed the shortest impact extension you can find. Other than that, a long breaker bar coupled with a long pipe for added leverage. When torquing the bolts on a job I'm doing, I got a friend to make sure the socket stayed straight on the bolt head while I turned the 4' pipe. Removing them is much the same. Don't want the socket to slip and round the bolt head.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#12
So, I'm happy and gutted. Happy one head is off and looks ok. Gutted as I've got 5 of the bolts loose on the other side but rounded the others, they just won't budge.
As I see it, I have two options:
1) drill off the head of the bolts
2) take a look at the rounded bolt head socket (Irwin type thing) removers
Advice from anyone gratefully received
As I see it, I have two options:
1) drill off the head of the bolts
2) take a look at the rounded bolt head socket (Irwin type thing) removers
Advice from anyone gratefully received
#13
This is where 12 point sockets come in, after you round it with a 6-point. Im gessing you did not losen then from the outside / in. i would suggest trying a 5/8 12 point or a 15mm 12point seat it firm with a hammer and get a longer breaker bar. Break all the bolts free working out to in before removing them.
So, I'm happy and gutted. Happy one head is off and looks ok. Gutted as I've got 5 of the bolts loose on the other side but rounded the others, they just won't budge.
As I see it, I have two options:
1) drill off the head of the bolts
2) take a look at the rounded bolt head socket (Irwin type thing) removers
Advice from anyone gratefully received
As I see it, I have two options:
1) drill off the head of the bolts
2) take a look at the rounded bolt head socket (Irwin type thing) removers
Advice from anyone gratefully received
#14
I followed the RAVE manual on the order in which to loosen the bolts - 3rd bolt rounded. While I had my buddy over helping we followed the others and the bolts are not budging. We did try and hammer a 15mm socket on and that just came off. And we're not being gentle!
I have another mate who is going to help with his air wrench to see if that works with some bolt extractor sockets - I'm not confident, but at this stage anything is on the table.
If that doesn't work, its time to be patient with a drill to get the heads off the bolts. I then hope that when the head comes off, it alleviates the pressure and the remainder of the bolts comes out with less cursing.
I have another mate who is going to help with his air wrench to see if that works with some bolt extractor sockets - I'm not confident, but at this stage anything is on the table.
If that doesn't work, its time to be patient with a drill to get the heads off the bolts. I then hope that when the head comes off, it alleviates the pressure and the remainder of the bolts comes out with less cursing.
#15
i would NOT suggest using an impact wrench on a steel head bolt in a aluminum block, it is quite possible that it could galled and take all the threads with it when it brakes free.
which head and which bolts are the problem? driver side last head bolts?
long slow even torque is what needed, put a cheater bar on the breaker bar if needed.
just for S&G do you have a torque wrench that you can put on to see what the present torque is?
which head and which bolts are the problem? driver side last head bolts?
long slow even torque is what needed, put a cheater bar on the breaker bar if needed.
just for S&G do you have a torque wrench that you can put on to see what the present torque is?
Last edited by drowssap; 11-10-2015 at 07:49 AM.
#17
Bolts stuck are the internal (top) bolt near firewall (that's going to be fun to drill out), internal middle, next and end bolt toward front of engine, and external second bolt from the front. Others are ok.
Going to store tonight to see if the extractor socket is worth it, otherwise I'm drilling this weekend.
I haven't checked the torque with my wrench, I'll look to do that tonight.
Walked away from it for a few days to calm myself and think rationally otherwise I'll do something even more stupid!
Plus is that the other head looks good with no real signs of issues.
Going to store tonight to see if the extractor socket is worth it, otherwise I'm drilling this weekend.
I haven't checked the torque with my wrench, I'll look to do that tonight.
Walked away from it for a few days to calm myself and think rationally otherwise I'll do something even more stupid!
Plus is that the other head looks good with no real signs of issues.
#18
Bigger pipe, bigger friend, better tool. That last thing you want to do is drill a head bolt, quite hard steel if i remember correcty.
Bolts stuck are the internal (top) bolt near firewall (that's going to be fun to drill out), internal middle, next and end bolt toward front of engine, and external second bolt from the front. Others are ok.
Going to store tonight to see if the extractor socket is worth it, otherwise I'm drilling this weekend.
I haven't checked the torque with my wrench, I'll look to do that tonight.
Walked away from it for a few days to calm myself and think rationally otherwise I'll do something even more stupid!
Plus is that the other head looks good with no real signs of issues.
Going to store tonight to see if the extractor socket is worth it, otherwise I'm drilling this weekend.
I haven't checked the torque with my wrench, I'll look to do that tonight.
Walked away from it for a few days to calm myself and think rationally otherwise I'll do something even more stupid!
Plus is that the other head looks good with no real signs of issues.
Last edited by drowssap; 11-13-2015 at 07:40 AM.
#19
My $.02
No air or power impact that will finish the job of rounding it off.
My engine man for the racecar suggested to use the smallest socket you can jam over the head then use a dead blow hammer and a breaker bar. Take TWO people one hits when the other pulls on bar. We used a 48' length of black iron pipe to get stuck head bolts off a 20/25 Rolls engine and it worked.
SOAKED it with penetrating oil the night before.
PS Military Bore Cleaner is better if you can find it.
Good luck!!
No air or power impact that will finish the job of rounding it off.
My engine man for the racecar suggested to use the smallest socket you can jam over the head then use a dead blow hammer and a breaker bar. Take TWO people one hits when the other pulls on bar. We used a 48' length of black iron pipe to get stuck head bolts off a 20/25 Rolls engine and it worked.
SOAKED it with penetrating oil the night before.
PS Military Bore Cleaner is better if you can find it.
Good luck!!
#20
Woop Woop. Bolts are off. WITHOUT DRILLING! Woohoo.
I've been doing some research online for what alternatives I had and saw the Irwin Bolt extractor set - looked solid, but dubious based on the struggles of normal sockets just slipping.
I managed to source one socket locally just right for 16mm bolts, put it on the first and, hey presto, off it comes. I though it was a fluke until off the others came off just as easy!
If you don't know how they work, the socket clamps down as you turn, and as you turn more, it clamps further onto the socket. I cannot believe how easy it was - with just little ol'me.
Tools: 1 x Breaker Bar, 1 x Extension (about 2ft), one extractor socket 16mm.
Easy as.
I've been doing some research online for what alternatives I had and saw the Irwin Bolt extractor set - looked solid, but dubious based on the struggles of normal sockets just slipping.
I managed to source one socket locally just right for 16mm bolts, put it on the first and, hey presto, off it comes. I though it was a fluke until off the others came off just as easy!
If you don't know how they work, the socket clamps down as you turn, and as you turn more, it clamps further onto the socket. I cannot believe how easy it was - with just little ol'me.
Tools: 1 x Breaker Bar, 1 x Extension (about 2ft), one extractor socket 16mm.
Easy as.