Okay folks,
I'm new to the Land Rover family. This is my husbands 03' Disco II HSE7 it started with 86000 when we met. It began with the Three Amigos showing up around 90000. As of right it's at 102643 and running. I think my throttle body heat plate is bad. I watched coolant leak from that area today and it made a huge steaming mess.. I was told I need a maf sensor which would cost 356.. and a IAC (what's a IAC?) which would be 400 plus. I can find the maf sensor cheaper and I'm not sure if that's a fair price from what they want to charge me. I am alone when I go to the mechanics, I kind of feel like I'm being taken advantage of... am I crazy or do these parts cost this much from a shop. He didn't mention the cost of labor either to note. I also have to pay 85 each time I go in a 1 hour diagnostic check and they have my car all day. (I've been in the shop before for an 02 sensor replacements and other trouble)

Any help would much appreciated...

03' Discovery
00' Jaguar XKR

 

The MAF can be purchased aftermarket (not from LandRover) for a lot cheaper and it's really easy to change, as long as you have a tamper resistant torques bit that fits. You can get an entire set for like $30. The bits look like starts with a hole in the middle. You also need to know how to unplug a wire from a harness. A person that has no idea what they're doing should take no more than 10mins and in investment of about $80, assuming you don't have the special torques bit or a driver to attach it to. In reality, you can normally just clean the part with a spray mass air sensor cleaner.

The IAC is the Idle Air Controller. That's the part we need to disconnect from the intake manifold when we change the spark plug wires (because it's in the way). I never replaced one, so I don't know how much you can find it for. A very easy part to replace also. Probably easier than the MAF.

Replacing a genuine MAF does cost quite a bit. I think the OEM part is about $150, but you can get an aftermarket for like $30. But remember, you can normally clean it instead of replacing it, but you have to use a special MAF cleaner. Anything else could destroy the sensor.

As far as the price, parts are a part of the profit as a mechanic. You generally charge 50 to 100 percent more than what the part is purchased for. It seems high, but part of that cost is delivery. A lot of the suppliers deliver on the spot, but they charge a delivery fee.

 

These guys are a reputable parts supplier, I buy lots of parts from them.
Here is your MAF sensor.
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MHK100800OEM Same Fit As Part # MHK100800) - Land Rover sensors from Atlantic British
It is so easy to change out even a girl could do it.

This is alittle more challenging, but still easy DIY with basic tools.
Throttle Body Heater Plate Kit (Genuine Part # MGM000010) | Land Rover And Range Rover Fuel System Parts

Here is the IACV.
Valve Air Control - Secondary Inject (Genuine Part # WAV100380) - Land Rover miscellaneous from Atlantic British

Fix the coolant leak first.
You can buy that kit at the dealer for about the same price as online and save on shipping.
You actually only need the gasket, but I linked to the whole kit because it is easier that way and not very expensive.

 

Save some cash next time and go by an auto parts store and they'll read that diagnostic code for free, just be sure to write down the numbers and post back here.

 

That MAF is really expensive. You can get an aftermarket for a whole lot less than that.

 

So you don't spend money on the wrong parts, send me your number and I'll be glad to walk your or your husband thru what to do.
DO NOT buy an after market MAF, they will code right out of the box.

 

Pretty much any MAF will stay with the code out of the box, because the computer has to get used to having a new MAF in it. I've only replaced one. Most do just fine with a good cleaning. The one I replaced was with an aftermarket, and I haven't seen a problem with it since then.

 

I hate to say it but most independent shops are out to rip women off when they see them. If you are capable I would go and buy a nice scan tool and sign up for a web based DIY site like Alldata Pro DIY. Then you can scan your own and look up the codes and it will tell you step by step how to diag and repair your own car. I think that Alldata runs arounf $15 a year. Also before I went and bought a MAF and a Iac I would have someone do a thourgh cleaning of the MAF and the Throttle Body. That could save you a lot of money and it sure will not hurt anything in the process

 

You are completely wrong, no after market or Generic Bosch will work on our truck.
It has to be a Bosch with matching part numbers on the barrel or it won't work.
Yes, sometimes, cleaning them, if done properly, can help but not all the time.

 

and by properly Mike means that if you try to clean them while they are hot, you'd might as well just throw it away. They don't like sudden drastic temperature change.