I have a 2000 Dico-II overheated last weekend, I found coolant is leaking out from the manifold outlet pipe (located at the very bottom of engine block). Does anyone have this problem before? Is there an o-ring inside manifold outlet pipe that cause leaking?

Thank you!

 

I'm a little fuzzy on pipe you mention - is it #17 in attached, one of the exploded diagrams from the RAVE? Also, when you say overheat, did warning light come on, and what point was temp gauge?

Update - saw your tag along on an old post. Yes, O-ring, see LAND ROVER PARTS - O-RING - COOLANT ELBOW,

If this fixes all of your D2 overheating head gasket area leak, at $1.31, you better buy a lottery ticket!

After replacing, borrow coolant pressure tester from auto parts store and test for coolant system leaks.

IMHO - you may have had low coolant to cause the overheat, lost by this O-ring over a period of time. Weekly under hood fluid check is good for all Rovers, and spots problems while smaller to deal with. Before overheat, where did your temp gauge normally run? Please be aware that on a D2, the ECU makes a signal to drive the gauge. Normal is 9:00 for a wide range of temps; overheating is above 9:00 (per the shop manual). You can get a more accurate picture of temps by a scan gauge or the Ultra Gauge, which run on the raw data sent to the OBDII port.

 

So while replacing the o-ring, replace the t/stat, switch away from Dexcool, replace the upper radiator hose if your beled screw is not located on top of a black plastic tee and then after bleeding the system, you might want to pressure test your coolant system to make sure you have no more issues.

 

many thanks! that's what I need to know! I think there is an o-ring between #17 manifold outlet pipe and manifold block but I'm wondering if there is another gasket there? Or just apply RTV and swap out o-ring? how do you test if t-state is bad? thanks again!!

 

thank you Mike, how do you run a quick test if t-stat is bad? seems like working for now.. do I need to replace lower hose between t-stat and manifold outlet? Thanks.

 

Just O-ring. One good thing about Rovers North is they have nice exploded diagrams. At those prices, they can afford to.

But all jokes aside, this is just one symtom, you would prudent to check cooling system completely, including pressure test, flush and refill if you have dexcool (orange) coolant (pix of sludge build up), and consider your thermostat to be living on borrowed time. The D2 temp gauge can fool you if you treat it like an old school Detroit model. If you have a data reading scanner, you can monitor for temps when your work is complete to see if any more issues are trying to bubble to the surface. Or make bubble sounds in your underdash pipes. See attached from RAVE on coolant flow.

 

Do a flush and swap your coolant away from Dex. You need to change the T-stat because of this and they are relatively inexpensive. You might want to look at the heater plate write-up too to see if there are any signs of leaking there.

 

The heater plate mentioned is the throttle body heater, not the heater core under the dash. Has a cheap to replace gasket as well. It is under item 5 on the drawing above. See Throttle Body Heater Plate Kit | Land Rover And Range Rover Fuel System Parts


As far as testing a stat, in the old school we cooked on the stove in pot, but you could see them opening. The D2 stat is a three legged affair, enclosed, and you can't really easily at what temp ir opens. The bottom inlet brings cool water from the radiator, the top inlet brings hot water from the engine to be passed thruough four sample holes to mix inside the stat, when it gets warm enough the real flow goes out the "arm" and into the water pump. While it can be checked with a tea kettle for basic yes/no opening, you can't really see when it is opening. Replace is a good idea.

Atlantic British is a good vendor. Any stat should be tested for operation before installation, you can do that by turning it upside down, pour in boiling hot water from tea kettle, should open and let it pass out through the "arm", will be just a trickle through the "axial" upper connection.

 

thanks! already ordered a new thermostat.

I found crankshaft front pulley where fan attached to is wobbling a lot! does it mean oil pump gear is damaged?

 

Yes, see photo - will need to replace pump. When it wobbles, inside it is carving into the aluminum. It will come apart, let fan hit radiator, etc. Takes about an hour to replace. Be sure to use correct bolt in original hole, they are various lengths