It is easy to replace, you need an impact driver to get the screws loose inside the front cover to get the gears out. I'm talking about the impact driver that you hit with a hammer. I don't know which bolt they are talking about, there were not any that I had a problem with. I'm using Mobil 1 synthetic oil, but there are many good oils out there... stick with a known name and you cannot go wrong. I've used Castrol, Shell Rotella (during engine break in), Valvoline and Mobil... I honestly cannot tell the difference.

 

I use Mobil oil but is 5w-30 OK?

 

The owners manual may say 5w-30 is OK, but that was when the engine was new. If you're still getting good oil pressure with it and it's running quiet then there may be a strong argument to leave it alone... That said, IMO I'd recommend running a heavier weight oil than 5w-30 now that your engine has so many miles.

I run either 10w-40 Mobile1 or 15w-40 Rotella here in south western PA. (Generally the same climate you see in NJ.)

 

If your engine is happy with 5W-30 then keep it, in summer you can try 10W-40.

 

X2 I find they either go or they don't. No rhyme or reason. Your non-leaking gaskets may last 100k more miles or 10, same with the ones you just replaced. Why do it if you don't have to.

 

Hi Bundu,

When I took apart the sump oil pan I had to disconnect the oil cooler line ( on the bottom next to back of the pan, the pipe is un like a hook shape) when I did the oil started coming out (strong nasty smell that made me dizzy). Is this oil going through the small radiator in front of the coolant radiator?, how do I refill it and which kind of oil, I will greatly appreciate your help

 

That is the transmission oil cooler line, you can actually leave that connected - I don't know why rave says you need to disconnect that. Connect it again so you do not loose any more oil, then follow the instructions on filling the transmission oil. If you have not yet changed your transmission oil or replaced the transmission filter then maybe it is a good time to do that as well, it is not a big job... just a bit messy.

 

Hi Bundu,

Finally done working on my truck, as soon as I opened the front cover you could see the damaged gasket in one of the water channels so I replaced timing chain, tstat, front oil gasket, water pump, oil pump, pan and FC gasket, after done the truck started right away and it felt great but about 5 minutes after driving around the truck died while decelerating in to an intersection and from there on started to feel rough and stalling on me once in a while (on really low speed and when idling). Only code reading is P1884 and displaying a message "coolant level lamp short circuit" Any idea what it could be? by the way no more coolant in my oil !!!. Big thanks for the diagnostic, I will appreciate your help

Thanks

 

On the stalling issue: clean your idle control valve (IACV) and throttle body. Get some carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Remove the IACV - the shiny silver cylinder on top of the engine with 2 x 1" black hoses attached to it. Clean the inside out real well. Remove the intake hose from the throttle body and clean the inside of the throttle body real well. You can even remove the throttle body to make it easier. See if it sorts out the idling issue.

 

I actually cleaned the throttle body real good and replaced the heater unit and gasket, the intake valve got cleaned as well, I see issues like mine being resolved by replacing the MAF sensor or the crankshaft position sensor (your thoughts), I may mention my idle is about 600rpm and when I'm driving at any speed if I let the accelerator go feels like the truck does not get gas and holds back then as soon as I accelerate I feel the kick on the transfer case, I hope this makes sense