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Coolant temp hotter when ambient temp colder - T-stat?

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Old 10-15-2018, 10:14 AM
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Default Coolant temp hotter when ambient temp colder - T-stat?

So ever since I purchased this truck the temps have been running hotter than what is typically noted on the forums. In the summer it would run 212*ish in the city and drop to 195*ish on the freeway. I have been using OBD Fusion to monitor the temps. I have ordered a 180* T-stat and a Hayden/Dorman clutch/fan setup but have yet to install wanting to see what temps were in the cold. This is not my primary vehicle; I drive it on the weekends mainly so there are not a lot of miles going on the odometer. This morning the cold front blew through Dallas and the temp was 40*. I hooked up the scanner, curious to see what the temps were. I was shocked. 220* in the city and when I got on the freeway it only dropped 6-8*. I turned the heater on full blast and turned off recirc and the temps dropped to 200* so I finished the drive to work gasping for cool air. So the T-stat isn't opening all the way is my conclusion. T-stat was replaced 35k miles ago along with the coolant, radiator and coolant replaced 25k ago, and then coolant was replaced again 15k ago when the heads were replaced. So, here's my game plan: replace T-stat with the 180* one I have, replace fan/clutch with the Hayden/Dorman setup I bought, replace all the hoses that attach to the T-stat, backwash the heater core and radiator and then refill with green coolant. Is there anything else I need to do as a "while you're at it"? Or is my assumption wrong?
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:33 AM
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It could be a lot of things but I would start with the fan and clutch, as the clutch fails they tend to not spin right, sort of free wheeling. That really impacts cooling, as you have the parts just do it it is a 30-60 minute job. If you still have the same issue you could have a larger problem
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:39 AM
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So, on the clutch. is it supposed to freewheel when the engine is up to temp? I just started it again and got it to "operating templerature" and shut it off. the fan spins freely. The fan is supposed to be hard to spin when engine is cold.
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:40 AM
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That 220 is just too high. How's the cooling system hoses feel at temp and running? Rock hard? Fluid moving? Maybe tstat, water pump, air getting into system? What you suggest would be a good start. Also tighten hose clamps, ensure flow, bleed system with front as high as you can get it. Good luck. Keep us posted.
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Bulax99
So, on the clutch. is it supposed to freewheel when the engine is up to temp? I just started it again and got it to "operating templerature" and shut it off. the fan spins freely. The fan is supposed to be hard to spin when engine is cold.
should spin like theres thick peanut butter inside it. Smooth though, not crunchy.
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 10:56 AM
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Ok. So the fan clutch is toast. After reading all the things on the forum about engine temps and such, when I got the truck I checked 4-5 time that the system was bled correctly. I pressurized the system with a pump (invaluable took) and it ended up taking about a pint of fluid. I rechecked/bled several times and all was good. Pulled it inside this morning after it cooled and felt the hoses and it didn't feel like anything was in there. When I squeezed the hoses quickly I could see coolant move in the reservoir. Cracked the bleed screw and nothing came out. Started the truck and let it build pressure, cracked again and the first 3-4 times air came out. After that is was fluid. Even running the hoses don't seem hard to squeeze. Once it got to operating temp (210* in this case) the aux fan came on a few times. I'm gonna start from zero and re-bleed the system. Thankfully I have a 25* ramp going in to my warehouse where I can park it and bleed that way.
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 11:23 AM
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Yup and that means you are basically depending on air flow from movement to cool the engine coolant Get that clutch and fan replaced before you do anything else, you might be pleasantly surprised.
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 11:36 AM
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“if” the thermostat installed currently is a 195F = 220F is not unusual. From the factory back in 99-04 I guarantee you all of our D2’s were running in the 210-225-229F range. Thanks to emissions our engines were made to run hotter vs older RRC/D1/P38/D90/D110’s.

180F thermostat will certainly help, but it could be so many other things from debris between the AC condenser, transmission/oil cooler, clogged radiator, low coolant level, air pocket, yada yada yada. Flush it very good, install the 180F and the hayden clutch/dorman fan blade.
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 12:00 PM
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ya'll are awesome thx for the help. makes a lot of sense. i love this forum,
 
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Old 01-15-2020, 04:41 PM
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"from debris" my thermostat had this, a small piece of old cloth had nestled itself in the thermostat on the bi metal part,,, took me a week to find that out and only after i had replaced the whole part with a new one... drove me crazy now "DashCommand" clocks between 182 and 205 depending driving fine with me
By the way, i stopped driving Priscilla last August, then last week started it up again, it started as soon as the key turned... must be an excellent fuel pump.... what you guys think?

 
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