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Coolant Under Pressure

Old Mar 21, 2019 | 10:56 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by mln01
Air getting into the reservoir is not the same as air getting into the "system." The problem is that coolant is escaping. Start with a new reservoir cap.
So you're saying the whooshing at the reservoir is not a problem, but new bubbles at the heater core could be? I just wasn't sure if its even possible for the cap to be introducing bubbles to the system via the reservoir.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 11:59 AM
  #12  
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Never use the bleed screw.
Unclip the tank and raise it very high.
Run at high idle.
This makes the D2 self bleed - just like the D1 does.

If you want to suffer - yes - try the bleed screw.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 12:59 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by jfall
Never use the bleed screw.
Unclip the tank and raise it very high.
Run at high idle.
This makes the D2 self bleed - just like the D1 does.

If you want to suffer - yes - try the bleed screw.

With the reservoir cap on or off? I've tried it with the cap off, coolant eventually expands and overflows our the tank.
ust curious to add this to my many other methods of bleeding. I've been living with waterfall for a couple months. Tried everything, even airlift tool.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 07:37 AM
  #14  
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After replacing my radiator, hoses, and heater hoses, I had air in the heater lines that I had a hard time getting out. I ended up holding the reservoir high up, took off a heater hose clamp, and used a pick/screwdriver to lift the hose from the pipe to let the air out(with the engine off). Could be worth a try.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 07:46 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by jfall
Never use the bleed screw.
Unclip the tank and raise it very high.
Run at high idle.
This makes the D2 self bleed - just like the D1 does.

If you want to suffer - yes - try the bleed screw.
I do this but, I also raise the front of the truck

Originally Posted by 04in719
With the reservoir cap on or off? I've tried it with the cap off, coolant eventually expands and overflows our the tank.
ust curious to add this to my many other methods of bleeding. I've been living with waterfall for a couple months. Tried everything, even airlift tool.
Leave the cap on, and do what was described 3 to 4 times with front of truck raised and letting the truck cool down over night.

 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 08:21 AM
  #16  
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quick check you may do. start the truck from cold with the coolant cap off, look at what comes out from the return from the TB heater plate (small line returning coolant at top of tank. Does it have many bubbles? Also, still while cold and running, put your hand and block off the top of the reservoir, is there pressure building up right away pushing your hand away? (still while cold of course) Pressure should not build up until warm, if it pressurises right away when cold it could be combustion gasses making their way in the coolant through HG. The ''block test'' kit may help you to identify what kind of gasses are in there.
Let us know!
Cheers
David
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 12:18 PM
  #17  
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Why does everyone make this so hard?

park overnight?

raise the bottle?

Park up a hill, open the bleeder, squeeze the hoses. 10 minutes.

the hill helps the heater bleed, and squeezing the hoses helps dislodge trapped air.

one of the reasons the t-stats always get a bad name is because theres air in and around the insides and it causes the stat to stay closed...until it actually opens.

I had a fiat with almost the same tstat and that car did the same exact thing for bleeding.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2019 | 12:37 PM
  #18  
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Thanks for all the info regarding bleeding. I can bleed the air out eventually.

My my main question was what could have caused the air in the first place. I haven’t done any work on it. I will try the initial pressure test Roby mentioned with the cap off.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 09:47 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by robert.juric
Thanks for all the info regarding bleeding. I can bleed the air out eventually.

My my main question was what could have caused the air in the first place. I haven’t done any work on it. I will try the initial pressure test Roby mentioned with the cap off.
Any small coolant leak = can introduce air into the system. TBH Plate if still in place = #1 spot if it’s seeping, bad O-Ring on the bleeder screw, or even a bad seal on the reservoir cap.

On my 02 Kalahari I “used” to get the waterfall sound from the heater core (no leaks in the system or low coolant) & then it went away. I also noticed when winter came that I had zero heat output from the heater. Found the core to be clogged, flushed it out, and absolutely zero gurgling afterwards.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2019 | 11:56 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by robert.juric
Hey all,

So I did my HGs about 10k miles ago, I haven't had any problems. However lately I noticed the waterfall noise returning. I checked my coolant and it was a little low, so I've gone back on high alert with the coolant watch. Today I tried to bleed it. I opened the cap and a good bit of air escape. I proceeded to raise the reservoir to bleed it but didn't get any air out of the bleed screw. So I topped it off and went on my way. I drove across town to fill up on gas. When I got there I double checked everything, but sure enough I had air in the reservoir again, and when I took the cap off I noticed some coolant leak out of the overflow hose.

Could this be a problem with the reservoir or cap? Or maybe something worse? Besides this it's driving fine.
I would try the changing the reservoir cap out first. It's cheap and after I fixed all my leaks I still had the waterfall. Replaced the cap and I was good to go!
 
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