Cooling system issue
#1
Cooling system issue
Strange at least to me cooling system issue, although temps are normal I appear to be losing coolant after driving for several hours.
About 1/2 inch loss after 2 or so hours of driving
Coolant loss appears to from the expansion bottle overflow line.
I am verifying this with a rag wrapped around the line a tire wrapped to capture any coolant from there.
Status
Suggestions ?
Update
This was a head gasket issue when starting disassembly I found the following sure signs:
Sorry about the fussy images
Milkshake in but only just starting PCV was also milk shaked
Coolant was good - no signs of oil
oIl has not been drained as of this post but dip stick is clear
About 1/2 inch loss after 2 or so hours of driving
Coolant loss appears to from the expansion bottle overflow line.
I am verifying this with a rag wrapped around the line a tire wrapped to capture any coolant from there.
Status
- System holds pressure
- While driving temps between 188 and 194 - 1600 to 2300 rpm 20 to 55 Mph
- Idle at traffic light 197 to 201 depending on how much stop and go drops as soon as rpm increases
- Will reach 201 after highway run at traffic light drops immediately once moving
- Hoses remain soft at 194 -197 degs
- System has pressure in the morning normal pfft noise
- No air at bleed screw
- Engine Warm up appears to be normal not excessively fast
- No misfires or codes
- Heater is blowing hot hard to judge how hot though
Suggestions ?
Update
This was a head gasket issue when starting disassembly I found the following sure signs:
Sorry about the fussy images
Milkshake in but only just starting PCV was also milk shaked
Coolant was good - no signs of oil
oIl has not been drained as of this post but dip stick is clear
Last edited by Richard Gallant; 01-26-2020 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Update
#2
#4
@redwhitekat No overheat at all.
Mine has liked being at the line, but a clogged heater core or rad could cause normal to be too high. At least the heater core is easy to bypass to test if a bit nippy to drive around that way.
Mine has liked being at the line, but a clogged heater core or rad could cause normal to be too high. At least the heater core is easy to bypass to test if a bit nippy to drive around that way.
#5
Well fueled up getting ready for a day trip with the club tomorrow, went for a 20 minute drive mix of hi-way and a hill climb home. Speeds between 50 and 90 mph numerous stops 1 to 5 minutes, needed to work the Hi/low CDL before the trip so very slow speed and stopped for about 5 to 6 minutes temps never passed 197 which normal for my disco when stopped for a while.
This was with the new rad cap, rag was dry when I stopped in the driveway.
Expansion bottle level was just above the mold line when hot, 1/8 of an inch or so.
Heater blows constantly hot
With luck it was just the cap.
If the water pump is going and weeping will the system hold pressure ?
There is no fluid underneath but could it be a small enough amount to not be seen ?
This was with the new rad cap, rag was dry when I stopped in the driveway.
Expansion bottle level was just above the mold line when hot, 1/8 of an inch or so.
Heater blows constantly hot
With luck it was just the cap.
If the water pump is going and weeping will the system hold pressure ?
There is no fluid underneath but could it be a small enough amount to not be seen ?
#6
The following users liked this post:
Richard Gallant (12-28-2019)
#8
The following users liked this post:
Richard Gallant (12-29-2019)
#10
No joy not just a rad cap, good news once the cooling system hits it's new level it stops losing coolant from the overflow hose.
The new hot full seems to be at the expansion tank seam or a bit below.
The new hot full seems to be at the expansion tank seam or a bit below.
- Heater still blows hot
- No misfires at 140 KM driven today
- Temp range 188.6 to 201.2
- Running at 2100 or so rpm 188.6
- Sitting for 5 minute no movement at idle peaks at 201 then drops right back to 194 and stays there
- hoses remain soft
- radiator return line and exit hole at the expansion tank to make sure there is no blockage.
- Exhaust gas test - although this does not really present as a head gasket leak, I need to make sure
- Rad cap is quite tight to get on cold is this normal