iv go a 99 disco 2 NAS and the connectors under the passenger footwell are corroded and wires are starting to fall out of their connectors.
i had a ton of sympoms conected to the bcu (dead obd port, no dome lights, no horn, no rear window wiper, key fob not working)

traced the wires in the rave manual and found that all the broken stuff has a wire or two in that big bundle under the passenger foot well.

searching brought me to this

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-repair-57435/

but the links to where he got the parts are broken.

anyone know where i can get connectors C0285-8ish?

any other advice concerning this repair would be helpful too, i seams i'm going to have to take out the blower to get at the connectors better

thanks abe from alaska

 

I can supply replacement Sumitomo 20-way header connectors and terminals.

BLACK


Sub-divided into five circuits -






BLUE


Sub-divided into four circuits -






GREEN


Sub-divided into four circuits -






GREY


Sub-divided into three circuits -






ORANGE


Sub-divided into six circuits -






YELLOW


Sub-divided into five circuits -





Supplied (as pictured above) with a 20-Way Splice Connector, Splice Cap and 20 x Sumitomo 090 Terminals.

They are £9.95 each + Postage


I'm happy to post anywhere in the world -

P&P for the UK is £1.10

P&P for Europe is £3.45

P&P for the Rest of the World is £4.25



I can also supply spare Sumitomo 090 terminals.

These are £0.28 each + Postage (as above)


.

 

And here's how to get the Blower out. It's actually quite easy.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...t=Blower+Motor

Might as well service it while out.

 

im working on dismantling the harness the rest of the way today. (thanks for the link supersport)

looking at your diagrams paul im assuming the black lines indicate a splice. ex: pins 9-11 are connected together on the yellow connector? (on a side note, if i only need one connecter i might make my own out of some 24 pin d-subs)


thanks paul il pm if i decide to get the lot:

i love this forum, everyone is the best

 

That's correct


As you can see from the diagrams, each colour of splice connector has its own configuration of terminals that are linked together.

On some of the headers on your D2, you'll find that Land Rover have used 'jumper' loops between sub-circuits, to increase the number on terminals that are common to a particular circuit.

.

 

OK got access to all the connectors and they are corroded so bad that wires are falling off.

note: to anyone doing this job, you dont have to take the blower out, their are two nuts on the engine side of the firewall and two more on the bracket it self and the bracket holding the bundle of wires falls out.

 

I got my replacement connectors form Paul Grant. Paul parts out Rovers. He sent me connectors with pig tails that were in great shape. No corrosion at all. I ended up splicing on connector in and replaced two splice caps (shown in PaulMc photos on the right side) on the connectors.

 

I'm guessing you have a good roof leak letting all that moisture in. Do you notice water on your floorboard after a hard rain?

 

The leak is probably coming through the fresh air vent under the cowl; leaking through the blower motor, it is not a whole lot. Those wires are wrapped in a plastic covering and that holds the water in the connectors. if you look at your cowl it is prolly not sealing tightly against the passenger side of the windshield glass.

 

im soldering the wires, using some good liqued flux and 60/40 rosin core solder. its working pretty well.

i tried using acid in the form of;
viniger and salt mix- took forever and didnt do much
sulfuric acid- had some laying around for jeaurly stuff to desolve slag, it was a bit better than the viniger/salt mix but still poor relults.

to anyone trying to solder corroded stuff;
-use rosin core 60/40 eletronics solder
-if the corrsion is really bad (mine was) then use liqued or rosin flux. put the flux on the wire and then heat it for a little while with the soldering iron, i should bubble a little. then put a little more flux on and then try to solder the wire agian.
- a hot soldering iron- i use a 40 watt one for small exetronics and a butane one i just got for when i need to be portable, like working on a car, the butane iron is really hot and gets the job done great.

iv soldered two connectors so far (C0286 and 289) and my dome lights and automatic door locks have started working, (havent tested the data port yet)