Cracked block @ waterpump
#1
Cracked block @ waterpump
As mentioned in earlier post...2001 Discovery II purchased with 58K on it last year. Always leaked coolant, very slow leak...required more coolant once every several weeks. Tried chasing the leak with dye to no avail.
A few days ago she starts leaking horribly, chased leak with dye again and found the location. Before tearing into it, it appeared as though someone had welded a bolt hole on the driver's side of the water pump (one of the 3-11MM bolts). I thought the region in question was actually part of the water pump and not the BLOCK, so I tore it down and my fears were confirmed...some #$!*%ER welded this thing and sold it to my wife.
Picture is attached. I'm shooting for any ideas that anyone might have about what to do about this short of getting a block and getting in rebuilt...which I know in my heart is probably the best thing to do.
Anyone know the going rate on a salvageable block and the cost of a rebuild? I really can't believe this crap.
A few days ago she starts leaking horribly, chased leak with dye again and found the location. Before tearing into it, it appeared as though someone had welded a bolt hole on the driver's side of the water pump (one of the 3-11MM bolts). I thought the region in question was actually part of the water pump and not the BLOCK, so I tore it down and my fears were confirmed...some #$!*%ER welded this thing and sold it to my wife.
Picture is attached. I'm shooting for any ideas that anyone might have about what to do about this short of getting a block and getting in rebuilt...which I know in my heart is probably the best thing to do.
Anyone know the going rate on a salvageable block and the cost of a rebuild? I really can't believe this crap.
#2
http://roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6438.cfm
That is all you need, even if you were to rebuild the engine you would still need one of these.
And if the block were cracked it would be a boat anchor.
One thing that you need to remember that the Rover engine is all aluminum, its dry weight is like 300lbs., complete.
That is all you need, even if you were to rebuild the engine you would still need one of these.
And if the block were cracked it would be a boat anchor.
One thing that you need to remember that the Rover engine is all aluminum, its dry weight is like 300lbs., complete.
#3
I need to add look at www.roverlandparts.com and www.autosportsunlimited.com for a used front engine cover.
#5
Yes it should be covered in the RAVE manual, if you do not have RAVE you MUST have it.
AK Rover has a link for a free download in his sig, it is THE shop manual for Rovers, and by THE manual I mean it is the same one that the dealer uses.
I have never replaced it before, but you will need to remove all acc.'s and pullies to get it off, it also houses your oil pump.
You will need to remove the oil pan as well.
AK Rover has a link for a free download in his sig, it is THE shop manual for Rovers, and by THE manual I mean it is the same one that the dealer uses.
I have never replaced it before, but you will need to remove all acc.'s and pullies to get it off, it also houses your oil pump.
You will need to remove the oil pan as well.
#6
Well I honestly thought the "front cover" was part of the block casting...I didn't know it was a seperate piece that could be replaced.
Operating under that false assumption had me planning on getting my hands on a used block (or motor) and having a rebuild done with either my reciprocating assembly or if I purchased a used complete motor...that one.
I guess the next order of business is to remove the front cover from this motor and see if the weld was done on just the front cover or if they tried welding the block...I'll save that for tomorrow...but really you gave me some hope bro! Even if I had to pay $600 for a brand new front cover, that sure beats shelling out $1500 for a used motor, ???? on a rebuild and all the time and effort of swapping it out.
The last I checked I didn't have any coolant in the oil, so I think that's kind of a plus...I just want to see if the weld-job that the prior owner had done affects the block.
Operating under that false assumption had me planning on getting my hands on a used block (or motor) and having a rebuild done with either my reciprocating assembly or if I purchased a used complete motor...that one.
I guess the next order of business is to remove the front cover from this motor and see if the weld was done on just the front cover or if they tried welding the block...I'll save that for tomorrow...but really you gave me some hope bro! Even if I had to pay $600 for a brand new front cover, that sure beats shelling out $1500 for a used motor, ???? on a rebuild and all the time and effort of swapping it out.
The last I checked I didn't have any coolant in the oil, so I think that's kind of a plus...I just want to see if the weld-job that the prior owner had done affects the block.