While not likely, I had the identical issue that you had, and literally checked EVERYTHING, except for the wiring. While doing my head gaskets, I must have moved the wire harnesses around enough to break a wire. As it turns out, it was the signal wire that runs from the fuel pump relay in the engine fuse box to the engine ECU to tell it to engage the fuel pump. My tech ran a new wire between the two pins and cut/capped the dead wire. Fuel pump worked as advertised. When all else fails, check out the continuity of this wire.

From wiring manual, page 20.5

Rhys L.

 

Thank you for that diagram! Super helpful.

 

I have an Update:

1. Checked the fuse & jumped the relay to confirm the power to fuel pump. There was, but the fuel pump wasn't providing the fuel pressure. = Replaced the fuel pump.
- Now, there is fuel pressure at the rail.

Still doesn't start.

2. Took off manifold to check the fuel rail and state of fuel injectors. Replaced them with engine that had fuel in line as recent as 3 months ago. They were visually new and had fuel in rail keeping them "fresh". = Refreshed the fuel injectors and tested for clicking with 12v power.

Still doesn't start.

3. Checked the Crank Position Sensor and noticed that the cover cap was broken so decided to replace. = Replaced CPS, the old one's magnetic tip was gunky.
- CPS is clean.

Still doesn't start BUT, it sounds like it wants to.
ONE time it started for 1.5seconds and died as the RPM didn't rise high enough.

4. Double checked the spark plug order and all checks out fine.

5. Had electrician come out and check the immobilizer potential and he said he couldn't find it near egnition switch and the fact that fuel pump is working and there is spark to start car with starter fluid, shows that it's not the immobilizer. I also don't have the light on bottom portion of dash blinking.

Now, as I crank, 50% of the time is sounds like its getting some vapor fuel and wants to start.
Maybe I flooded the cylinders with fuel with so much cranking?

Also, with so much cranking, the new battery is dead but charges well using my other vehicle and it feels like it has a better chance to start when RPMs are up in my other car connected to Rover.

QUESTIONS:
1. Do the throttle cables need to be in a specific tightness spec?
2. How to know if spark distributor is broken/not working?
3. What can it be?

 

Do you have a spare MAF sensor? Could be that, sounds like everything else you tried is ok. If the engine started briefly and then died, you could have weak spark, corroded main ground braid, or low cylinder compression.

 

These engines will run without a maf, but not with a bad maf. Unplug it, if it still does not run you have a bad CPS. Are you sure you put the spaces in the right orientation?

 

I am leaning on the spark plug idea. Truck only has 67k miles on the MAF.

Today, I will be adding more fuel into the tank, flushing the fuel via rail and then replacing the spark plugs after I check them for spark. I have a feeling it might be weak fuel in addition to weak spark plugs that have been fouled up by constant cranking as I am troubleshooting.

 

That's what I was thinking about the MAF and will try without it as well but really doubt a bad MAF.

About the CPS. I cannot see how one can install incorrectly. Sensor -> spacers -> nuts. Then cover goes on top.
I am also confident about the CPS replacement as the truck does have more desire to start after replacement. Since I had to do a lot of cranking I am thinking of a weak spark in addition to fuel being weak. (Had one gallon fresh fuel added to a gallon of 1 year old fuel) :/ I know, I know.

Hopefully will have a positive update tonight but please, send your thoughts and solutions my way in the meantime!

 

Will be trying to start tomorrow am after the fuel refresh.

(jumped the fuel pump and collected via schrader valve. First gallon was orange and then I stopped when it became light yellow)

crossing my fingers that it wasn’t starting due to the old fuel.

if it doesn’t start with the old spark plugs, I will be replacing them and trying again.

I am thinking, fresh fuel and fresh spark..should fire right up!

stay tuned.

 

Hello all, and especially those who have responded to help.

The Discovery 2 is starting nicely after the fuel was flushed through the rail until slightly yellow fuel started coming out. Bad fuel was orange.

I guess old fuel really doesn't work well.

So:
1. The CPS sensor is never a bad idea to replace. Mine was gunky and even before the fuel refresh, after CPS replacement the car had more desire to start.
2. The old fuel was the culprit and may have been the reason a relatively low, 68k miles, fuel pump went out.

I had to:
a. Replace fuel pump.
b. Get rid of old fuel and replace with new.

I will be going ahead with new spark plugs, even though i didn't have to replace to get it started with new fuel.

She is now running! Just need to bleed coolant and replace the throttle body coolant gasket and off I go.

Thank you for your time.

 

Yes, anymore, the shelf life of fuel is about three months. Order fuel for our fleet 150 vehicles, 12500 gallons every three weeks, and talk with the fuel supplier often...and he said...three months...use it...or you'll see issues. With the covid stopdown, we added an additive to the gas underground tank, but the diesel had to be polished (cleaned) and have an additive...at the tune of 5000.00 dollars.

That's why you should go to high volume stations. Mom and pop stations don't see the turnover and odds are...you'll get old fuel...and get worse gas mileage or notice running issues.

Always start with new fuel.