On a related note, I found that there is a leak going on now from the coolant into the oil. I examined everything for cracks, and there was no leak, even with the head gasket blown. But I noticed the expansion tank was lower than it was when I filled it, and I checked the engine oil to see the level is higher than it was when I filled it.

Now I have a second issue to deal with. I used all new gaskets on everything and torqued everything down to spec. Apparently something isn't sitting right. This thing is really getting on my nerves. I've never had this kind of problem before. I'm going to end up at least pulling the top part of this engine again. I figure I'll just poor water into the top of the engine block (with the rocker covers off) and see if I see anything, so I can at least rule out an engine block issue. I should also be able to tell if one of the head gaskets failed to seat properly.

 

Hi,
Don't bother with the rocker arm shafts.
That will not help.

I would not bother taking off the oil pan either.

You need to be sure you seated the push rods correctly. Maybe you did not seat them and they are not pushing the valves down?

As I recall - seating the push rods is a bit of a hassle.
you need to seat them and lightly torque the rocker arm bar in and assure they are all seated.
I am sure that went well for you?

I don't think it matters then if the push rods got mixed up either.
They will wear better if they are as they were when the engine was taken apart - but, if you mix them up - the lifters will compensate.


There is one wire going underneath the bracket that holds the A/C and the Power steering pump.
Not sure where that goes. But , if it got crushed?

You seem absolutely sure about the coil pack wires. Yet, when someone takes this all apart - there is a huge amount of disruption.

As I remember, the wires seemed to be near the coil pack as spliced off the the harness.

If you have any doubt about the coil wires at all, you could try to switch them.

If you knew the compression stroke on cylinder 1 - you could see if there is a TDC mark on the front pulley and see if the spark happens near where it should.

The last guy on here that had a not starting issue found it was his crank sensor was not reinstalled correctly.
He had his engine out.

 

I'm not sure that you should pour water into the engine. What will that help you find exactly?

Did your truck overheat really bad when the head gaskets blew or did you change them before it every started overheating?

Did you take the heads to a machine shop to get resurfaced and use new head bolts when you changed the head gaskets?

 

Hi there

Did you ever find a fix to this problem as i have the same problem

Thanks

Kieran

 

You will get more help if you start a new thread of your own and discribe the problems you are having. Include as much information as possible (trouble codes, leaks, how many miles, what year, symptoms, ect...).

 

This is old but I had this same problem no fire, no fuel pressure, just spin over and do nothing, replaced fuel pump, crank pos. sensor, plug wires, and coils finally I discovered I had a leak that was dripping directly onto my interior fuse panel (Left driver side under steering) replaced the fuse panel and fired up on first turn of the key, no problems in two years.