'95 Discovery 3.9 v8i engine, automatic.
Well, I had a stalling problem that would happen occasionally when warm and at idle (stopping at stop sign, etc).
I'm into my 10th day on a new problem, dang thing won't start now on me.

PLEASE HELP.
I will mail any person $150 if they can solve my problem...

prior...Thru various research, I found that a number of sensors might be to blame for the stalling problem,
so I decided to try cleaning each - cleaned most - got to the plenum and disconnected,
sprayed some choke/carb cleaner all around, and in (got some in the intake ports as well, oops), ....well long story short, when I hooked it back up (and sealed to make sure no vacuum line problems, thanks Ronn) the thing had a really hard time firing when cranking and acted like it was flooded.
I gave it a day to sit, and went back and it was even worse....took off, blowed/dried out and tried again,
nothing , - now it just cranks like it has no spark...(or gas, or timing prob', or etc, etc)...
In case it was flooded, i set the inertial fuel-shutoff and tripped it so that I could crank the starter and hopefully burn off any flooded fuel ...nothing there either...

Through a great deal of research, I 'think' it may be a possible security system problem, but not sure. 'however it is not acting quite like it is immobilized and there are no indicator lights. 'I think that immobilization just kills my fuel pump (however I have a good deal of pressure (not tested for lb/in) at least appears that way by releasing the fuel injection rail port, squirts out).

So I did some voltage checks on coil, to see if I have spark...I do, but it's not a real brilliant, big blue spark - so I decided to replace it...no difference.
I got some of that spray down the vacuum advance line and thought well maybe my timing was off, but applying some vacuum to that line shows visibly the distributor advance turning -...so no there.
I had the stepper motor out and cleaned it, the throttle position sensor (which is uncleanable), cleaned the mass air flow sensor (the proper way there)....I cleaned all O2 sensors, cleaned the speed sensor on the diff', cleaned various other temperature sensors, cleaned off dirty, grimy wires (from engine cleaning spray), I had had a prior problem with it not even starting awhile back and it was a loose hot wire going to the starter - tightened it up and it cranked as usual.

...let's see, checked to see if I had a bad rotor, checked spark on the new one that I installed (3 weeks ago), and current test showed a spark from coil to it, so I threw the old rotor and cap back in, to see if that might not be what was going on - nothing....
'tried old wires back on it , nothing - put new wires back on it...
'pulled plugs to see condition - they were moist with gas so further evidence that there's at least fuel there....
I checked all fuses and visually they appear to be good.
Oh, and btw, my horn went out about the same time that this problem occurred,....which also was shortly after I did an underbody water spray at the car wash to check for an oil leaking problem....it started once after that when I moved the vehicle up in the driveway, and then after that...nothing....
So the only things I haven't checked are timing (not sure what to do there), and compression...but I simply can't imagine
that pulling off a few sensors and the plenum and cleaning (even if I did spray some down in the intake ports), would have caused
any problems there.
I had wife check while i was cranking and the fuel pump appeared to be working....
The horn, being indirectly related to my security system, (WHICH I READ, Land Rover has won some awards for it's thorough design of security, but also has shown that it is a PAIN IN THE A$$ if problems happen)....but I'm not getting any obvious indicators that the car is in immobilized state....but I can setoff the alarm, lights flash, but the horn doesn't blow any more.... Is it such that designers may have been so thorough that, if the horn is disabled, this may be a security circumvention and they may immobilize the thing in that condition?

oh, on computer codes, there are none ... I verified it is/was throwing codes, I had an O2 (lambda) sensor out on me, and I cleaned it, cleared it and it went away - and during this latest process, I had the throttle position sensor I think uncoupled, so when I cranked and cranked to start the thing, it threw the 17 code.... it's since been cleared.
'visual check of each and every fuse showed no breaks there...


So, if you have any practical quick advice on diagnosing this thing....would appreciate anything you have ...
I've been on this forum for literally probably 15 hours total, and have tried miscellaneous things, with no luck....

I have not tested timing or compression - I just can't imagine that anything I did in my cleaning messed anything up there.....

PLEASE HELP.
I will seriously mail any person $150 if they can solve my problem...

Al J. - town of Indiana, state of Pennsylvania, the colonies

 

So , if you try to crank it now, there is not a CEL?

Turn the key to the on postition 3 times and then try to start it.

If you powerscrubbed the engine and got the ECU wet, it will have to dry out. YOu will just have to wait. I went through an automatic that had just the right spray pattern and it killed the engine. I had the same problems, and I just had to wait.

You may want to pull the fuse box and inspect it. If there are no signs of water/ corroded terminals, put a hair dryer on it for a bit, taking care not to melt the plastic.

Give it a shot.

 

I did not power spray the engine, I sprayed underneath to get the grime off to diagnose another problem, oil leaking somewhere. I will follow your advice regardless, just in case. No CEL.

 

not a tough job to pull it, and then you rule it out.

 

Have you checked your Crankshaft position sensor? I just re-read. If it was getting worse the warmer it got, that could be the culprit. Usually stalling at idle only is a vacuum/ MAF problem, but the CPK could be your culprit.

On another note, did you get carb cleaner on the MAF when you were spraying into the plenum? How do your vacuum hoses look?

 

The '95 has no CPK from what I read (and inspect).
I don't believe I got any carb cleaner on the MAF, I wasn't in that area.
Vacuum hoses are good.

 

That is correct, the ones with a cap and rotor do not have a CKS.
Because it was shutting off when hot and hard to start when hot I say it is a bad fuel temp sensor, very common for them to act up on DI's.

If it was the alarm spider you would not be getting any fuel and or spark at all.

The next thing that woulod cause this is the ignition control module, it controls spark.
It could also be a bad coil, but I think you csaid that you repalced that.

So, the fuel temp sensor is the cheapest part to start with.
I will report back later with 2 links to sites that explain/show you how to bypass the alarm spider.
www.atlanticbritish.com

 

Not too familiar with the DI's ignition but, the ignition module picks up a signal from somewhere. My guess would be in the distributor if there is not a ckp. Id throw a distributor base plate and pickup, ignition module and condesnsor. Then a timing light set to base timing.

 

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm

Now keep in mind that because you have fuel PSI this may not be your problem, but it is worth looking into and reading up on.

 

I had an odd problem like that on my 2000 disco 2. The battery would not stay charged regularly and with the low voltage state it led to all kinds of computer issues that by the look of it should have been a security system problem.

For me it turned out to be a rotten positive cable from the alternator to the battery. It was causing intermittent failures of the charging system.

The battery checked out good but the alternator seemed bad. I changed the alternator and the new one tested bad then with the testor at the auto parts store it went good again.

The solution for me was buying a new positive cable from the auto parts store, leaving the stock one in place and running that to the battery. I also cut off the positive and negative terminals and put on new ones to be really sure the power was there and connected.

Fixed it and has been fine since.

Not sure it will fix it but it is an inexpensive thing to do and is good for the power system even if there is no problem with it causing the issue.